人体腰部及下肢运动对服装松量设计的影响  

Effects of waist and lower limb movements on clothing ease design

作　　者：王永进[1,2] 莫碧贤[1] 李翼[1] 郭旖莲[1] 

机构地区：[1]香港理工大学纺织与制衣学系 [2]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《纺织学报》2010年第3期92-97,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：香港创新及科技基金资助项目(ITP/002/079TPITP/014/08TPITP/030/08TP)

摘　　要：为了完成动态样板的设计,基于10名男性人体在静、动态下的1600个尺寸,采用因子分析和方差分析方法,研究了腰部及下肢运动对人体尺寸的影响,以及尺寸变化对服装松量设计的影响。数据及分析结果表明,9种尺寸是描述人体下肢及躯干下部的关键部位尺寸,也是下装样板设计中最为重要的基本尺寸。除了腰围和脚踝围外,9种腰部及下肢运动对其他7种关键尺寸的变化都有明显的影响,尤其是对臀围和后腿中心线长度的影响最为明显。最后,根据这些尺寸变化和分析结果,讨论了下装纸样中部位松量设计以及面料弹性性能的设计。Based on（1 600） measurements of 10 subjects measured in natural standing state and shoulder joint movements,two statistical methods,including factor analysis and one-way ANOVA,were used in this study to explore principal body measurements and analyze effects of different waist and lower limb movements on each principal body measurement for clothing ease design,which were helpful to dynamic pattern design.The findings showed that changes of all body measurements in waist and lower limb movements were different and 9 measurements were principal body measurements,which were used in bottom pattern making.Except waist and ankle girth,effects of waist and lower limb movements on each principal body measurement were significant,especially on hip girth and back central length of leg. Finally,clothing ease design and fabric elasticity design were discussed according to the changing results of principal body measurements in different movements.

关 键 词：腰部运动 下肢运动 人体尺寸 服装松量 面料弹性 

分 类 号：TS941.15[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]