近岸带波浪传播过程中波性质的统计对比分析  

Statistical Analysis and Comparison on Wave Characteristics During Wave Propagating in Nearshore Zone

作　　者：李志强[1,2] 陈子燊[2] 李志龙[2,3] 

机构地区：[1]广东海洋大学工程学院,广东湛江524088 [2]中山大学水资源与环境系,广东广州510275 [3]湖南商学院,湖南长沙410205

出　　处：《广东海洋大学学报》2010年第4期43-47,共5页Journal of Guangdong Ocean University

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(40806036);广东省学科建设专项资金资助项目(育苗工程)

摘　　要：通过对粤东后江湾近岸带垂岸方向上4个测站,同步观测到的波浪数据进行频域统计分析,初步探讨分析了波浪近岸传播过程中波浪统计性质的变化规律。结果表明:碎波带内波的频谱多峰特征显著,峰频两侧均存在着显著能量峰值,峰频能量发生转移;波浪经过破碎后,约束长波能量被释放出来;波浪向岸过程中谱宽度(ε)变大,同时谱尖度(Qp)减小,显著波陡(Ss)增大,峰值周期(Tp)增大,平均周期(Tm02)减小。Based on the wave data measured at 4 stations in Houjiang Bay,East Guangdong,China,wave Characteristics and changes in the nearshore zone were analyzed and compared primarily by wave frequency statistic.The results show that the wave spectra of the surf zone are composed of multi-freqency peaks.Significant energy peaks existing on the sides of the specta peaks show that the specta peaks energy transfer to both high and low frqency.The coupled long wave energy releases after wave breaking.During the wave approaching to the shoreline,the spectral width（ε）,significant wave steeps（Ss） and spectral peak periods（Tp） increase while the wave spectral peak（Qp） and mean periods（Tm02） decrease.

关 键 词：近岸带 波浪统计 频域 波能 碎波带 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]