立体裁剪专用松量模型的开发  

Development of draping specific ease model

作　　者：郑娟[1,2] 戴建国[1] 徐蓉蓉[1] 陈美珍[1] 邵新阳[3] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]湖州艺术与设计学校,浙江湖州313000 [3]杭州职业技术学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2011年第3期105-109,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家级实验教学示范中心建设单位项目(教高函[2009]28号)

摘　　要：鉴于服装企业立体裁剪技术需求的日益扩大和使用立体裁剪净体模型松量加放困难的现状,希望将立体裁剪过程中加放的衣片松量转移到立体裁剪专用模型中,以特定廓型松量模型的研制为例,提出了立体裁剪专用松量模型开发的设想。在论述立体裁剪松量模型概念、作用及其设计思路的基础上,采用非接触式三维人体测量设备,提取被测者的净体与着装截面,运用MER法、图形旋转法、散点平均离散处理、极坐标拟合与插值等方法及MatLab程序设计进行截面处理与分析,总结出特定廓型松量模型的加法设计和减法设计,以及各自的适用性。最后,简要介绍了松量模型的试制和试用验证。In view of the increasing needs of draping technology in the clothing enterprises and the fact that it is difficult to master easing and adding based on a manikin in draping,the paper proposed to develop a draping model for the purpose of easing and adding.The concept,function and design ideas of the draping model were discussed with practical example.3-D non-contact scanner was suggested for body measurement,and methods such as MER,graphics rotation,average discrete processing of discrete points,polar fitting and interpolation as well as MatLab program design could be used for processing and analyzing the data.Two methods to design ease model was presented,that is,addition design and subtraction design,along with individual applicability,making and trial application and verification of ease models.

关 键 词：服装 立体裁剪 人体模型 松量设计 三维人体测量 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]