轻薄型提花牛仔布的设计与生产  

Design and Production of Light-weight Jacquard Denim

作　　者：马兴建[1] 谭文挺 

机构地区：[1]广东纺织职业技术学院 [2]广东南海樵利化纤织造有限公司

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2011年第6期51-53,共3页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：总结轻薄型提花牛仔布的设计及生产工艺技术要点。选用精梳纯棉股线和有光锦纶长丝为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱为纬纱,采用斜纹复合组织为地组织,并用黑色、深蓝色与有光锦纶长丝的颜色反差,产生鲜明的豹纹双色立体效果。生产实践表明:采用双织轴大提花织机织造时注意控制张力、经常检查通丝是否磨损、加强操作培训、优化布边组织、调整综框高度等,可成功开发轻薄型提花牛仔布,并保证织机效率在96%。Design and production processing technology characteristics of light-weight jacquard denim were summarized. Combed pure cotton ply and lustrous nylon filament was selected as warp yarn, polyester filament-polyurethane core-spun yarn was selected as weft yarn. Twill combination weave was selected as base, and color contrast between black, dark blue and lustrous nylon filament was used, bright leopard bi-color three-dimensional effect was produced. The practice shows that light-weight jacquard denim can be developed successfully, and the loom efficiency can be ensured at 96%, through using two-beam jauquard loom, controlling warp tension, checking heddle twine abrasion, strengthening operation training, optimizing weave stitch, adjusting heald frame height, and so on.

关 键 词：牛仔布 精梳棉纱 锦纶长丝 涤氨包芯纱 提花组织 经纱张力 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]