改革开放30年来中国服装文化心理模式的变迁  

Clothing culture related psychological change process of Chinese people for 30 years since reform and opening up

作　　者：孙涛[1] 吴志明[1] 潘盼[1] 杨旭[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2011年第8期147-150,共4页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(09YJA760015);江苏省教育厅高校哲学社会科学基金指导项目(09SJD760011);江南大学"国家大学生创新性实验计划"资助项目(091029539)

摘　　要：从服装文化心理的角度,研究改革开放后中国服装文化发生的深刻变迁。提出并论述中国服装文化心理模式变迁所经历的3个阶段,即身份认同、身体认同、个性认同。身份认同,就是把个人的服装与其社会身份紧密结合,个人着装行为要由群体和社会加以规范;身体认同,是指服装要满足人的身体舒适感和形体美的需求;个性认同,就是服装要满足自身精神面貌特征的追求或者说将自己从群体中独立出来的追求。通过对3个模式和2次变迁的论述,揭示了中国服装文化由群体规范的自觉发展到身体意识的觉醒,进而提升到个体意识的表达,从而迈向现代化这一过程中的精神脉络。This paper discusses the three stages of the clothing related psychological change of the Chinese people since reform and opening up,that is,identity identification,body identification,and individuality identification.Identity identification means that individual wear should be adapted to one′s social status and be regulated by the social group.Body identification means that the wear should satisfy the requirements of comfort and beautiful look of the wearer.Individuality identification means that the wear should meet one′s pursuit in spiritual look and character or individuality.By elucidating 3 modes and 2 changes,it displays a throbbing line of the clothing related psychological change processes of the Chinese people from regularization by groups to awareness of body identification through to the expression of individual consciousness,thus marching forward to the modernization.

关 键 词：改革开放 服装文化心理模式 身份认同 身体认同 个性认同 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]