轻薄型精纺毛型西服面料的风格特征的分析  

The Analysis of the Light-weight Worsted Fabric's Characteristics

作　　者：顾莹莹[1] 潘志娟[1] 尚笑梅[1] 

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215006

出　　处：《苏州大学学报（工科版）》2011年第5期48-51,共4页Journal of Soochow University Engineering Science Edition (Bimonthly)

摘　　要：采用KES-FB和FAST风格评价系统测定了41种精纺毛涤混纺西服面料在低负荷下的基本力学性能及经纬向拉伸率,在此基础上计算得到硬挺度、滑糯感和丰满度3项基本风格值以及可成形性指标。综合分析了轻薄型精纺毛织物作为秋冬季西服面料的基本风格特征以及可成形性指标的范围。分析得轻薄型精纺毛织物的硬挺度和滑糯感值较大,丰满度值符合标准要求,经纬向的可成形性良好,服装定性容易。KES-FB and FAST systems were used to test 41 light-weight worsted fabric＇s basic mechanical characteristics and tensile rate on low load.Based on these experiments,three basic haracteristic values Koshi,Numeri,Kukurami and formability index were got.In this paper,comprehensive analysis had been done to get the ranges of these materials＇ basic characteristics and formability index.The value of Koshi and Numeri of the light-weight worsted fabrics were larger enough,Kukurami value accorded with standard and the formability was good for clothing making.

关 键 词：精纺毛织物 西服 硬挺度 滑糯感 丰满度 可成形性 

分 类 号：TS134.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]