中国传统印染与植物染料关系初探——以大理白族扎染与板蓝根为例  

An Initial Analysis of The Relationship Between Traditional Printing and Dyeing and Vegetable Dye:Take Dali Bai Tie-dye and Radix Isatidis for Example

作　　者：张学渝[1] 董卓娅[1] 李伯川[1] 

机构地区：[1]云南农业大学思想政治理论教研部,云南昆明650201

出　　处：《云南农业大学学报（社会科学版）》2012年第2期114-118,共5页Journal of Yunnan Agricultural University(Social Science)

基　　金：云南农业大学第四届学生科技创新创业行动基金(109)

摘　　要：中国传统印染有着悠久的植物染料使用历史。植物染料取材广泛、色泽丰富,其中以蓝靛的使用最为普遍。中国三大传统印染(绞缬、夹缬、蜡缬)均使用蓝草植物提取蓝靛做染料,形成了独特的印染织品。以大理白族扎染与板蓝根为例,分析传统印染与植物染料相辅相成的关系。这样的关系在以大规模使用有机合成染料的20世纪前后有着不同的动因:在这之前植物染料广泛用于传统印染,一方面在于染料取材方便、使用灵活,另一方面在于传统印染行业中植物染料供需持衡;而之后植物染料的大力提倡则主要是由于植物染料的使用不污染环境,以及植物染料织品对人体有保健功效和纹样朴素大方、贴近自然的审美功能。从长远看,植物染料的大量开发与应用将会是一大热点。There is a long history of the vegetable dyes used in Chinese traditional printing and dye- ing. The material of vegetable dyes can be obtained widely from the nature and has rich color, among which the most common use is indigo. The dyes named indigo is extracted from the blue grass which is widely used in the three Chinese traditional printing and dyeing （the pattern-dye valerian, Jiaxie, wax printing） and formed its unique products of dyeing fabrics. This paper takes Dali Bai tie-dye and radix isatidis for example and analyzes the complementary relationship in printing and dyeing and plant dye- stuff between Bai tie-dye and radix isatidis, which have different reasons before and after the 20th cen- tury when the organic synthetic dyes were extensive used. Before the 20＇h century, one reason why plant dyestuff is widely used in traditional printing and dyeing is because of the convenience to collect the plant dyestuff and the flexible use of it, the other reason is that the supplement and demand of vegetable dye are balanced in traditional printing and dyeing industry; After the 20th century, the plant dyestuff is strongly advocated by people because it doesn＇t pollute the environment. Meanwhile, the plant dyestuff fabrics are benefit to human body health and the patterns of the fabrics are simple and easy, close to natural aesthetic function. In the long term, a large number of developments and the large-scale application of the vegetable dyes will be a hot spot.

关 键 词：传统印染 植物染料 大理白族扎染 板蓝根 关系 

分 类 号：N09[自然科学总论—科学技术哲学]