薄型机织物缝纫时纱向对缝口缩皱的影响  

Influence of thin woven fabric diagonal sewing way on its seam pucker

作　　者：穆红[1] 陆鑫[2] 顾韵芬[3] 

机构地区：[1]无锡工艺职业技术学院服装系,江苏宜兴214206 [2]辽东学院,辽宁丹东118003 [3]扬州职业大学,江苏扬州225000

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2012年第11期29-31,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：无锡工艺职业技术学院科研课题(57201119)

摘　　要：研究选择了丝绸、弹力化纤两类成衣生产常用面料,通过相同的缝纫条件作用,测试了不同纱向织物缝口缩皱的变化,利用测量计算法,分析了织物纤维品种、厚度、密度对缝口缩皱的影响,以及斜向缝口缩皱的曲线变化,并以二元四次函数拟合出斜向缝口缩率曲线、面料上下层缝口缩率差值曲线的变化。Two kinds of common garment fabrics, silk and stretch chemical fibre fabric are chosen to test the seam pucker changes caused by different diagonal sewing ways under the same sewing condition. By measuring caculation method, the influence of the variety, thickness and density of the fabric on the seam pucker and the curve changes of seam pucker by diagonal sewing way are analyzed. It also figures out the diagonal sewing way seam pucker curve and the differential value curve changes of seam pucker of fabric＇ s upper and bottom layers by using multi-term function.

关 键 词：轻薄织物 缝纫 疵点 

分 类 号：TS941.634[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]