鲁南民间云肩及其制作技艺探究  

Folk Yunjian in South Shandong and its workmanship

作　　者：薛再年[1] 王闪闪[1] 崔荣荣[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2013年第3期109-115,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家社科基金青年项目(10CZS003);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(JUSRP5132TA);教育部新世纪优秀人才支持计划(NCET-12-0886)

摘　　要：民间云肩制作技艺精巧独特,是尚未开发的民族传统技艺宝藏。山东鲁南地区的民间云肩制作是具有独特地域文化特色和艺术风格的技艺代表。以山东鲁南地区的民间云肩为研究对象,采用田野调查的方法对该地区手工艺人进行了云肩及其制作技艺的访谈和深入考察,了解当地民间云肩的发展及现状,并进行了实践操作,借助数码技术记录了几种代表性款式云肩从准备、缝制到后整理的制作方法,包括打阙子、画花样、尅阙子、下布、衍边、衍套子、插花、抹里子、连片、绱领等步骤,归纳出其制作时的技巧,剖析蕴含其中的具有地方特色的赋色鲜艳美、布局造型美和工艺技术美等艺术审美层面的内涵。Yunjian has exquisite and unique workmanship and is a traditional national treasure of technical know-how to be explored. The Yunjian in South Shandong is its representative work which possesses the unique features of local culture and art style. This paper takes the Yunjian in South Shandong as the research target and conducts a field investigation, making interviews with local handicraftsmen for getting information concerning the manufacturing process, development history, and current status of the Yunjian. And during the interviews, demonstrations and trial operations are made and digital photos and recordings are taken of the entire making process of different styles of Yunjian, from preparation, sewing, through to finishing, including the steps of making Quezi, painting patterns, cutting the Quezi, laying cloth, hemming sides, cover sewing, embroidery, sewing lining,linking, and attaching collar, etc. From these we can see its graceful workmanship, brilliant colors with local artistic features, and beautiful shaping, configuration, and arts.

关 键 词：鲁南云肩 民间技艺 工艺技巧 艺术美 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]