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作 者:刘运娟[1,2] 陈东生[1,2] 甘应进[1,3] 殷薇[1,4]
机构地区:[1]闽江学院服装与艺术工程学院,福建福州350108 [2]福州市纺织服装行业技术创新中心,福建福州350108 [3]福建省服装行业技术开发基地,福建福州350108 [4]福建省高校纺织服装技术工程研究中心,福建福州350108
出 处:《纺织学报》2013年第7期111-114,共4页Journal of Textile Research
基 金:教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(09YJA760017);福建省教育厅社科项目(JBS09126);福建省高校服务海西建设重点项目(闽教高〔2009〕8号)
摘 要:客家妇女围身裙是客家妇女服饰的重要组成部分,是客家妇女勤劳、智慧的象征。为此,通过田野调查与分析将闽西地区客家妇女围身裙进行分类,按其形制不同分为凸字形和长方形2种,裙身以蓝黑为主色,腰头等局部饰以色彩艳丽的刺绣图纹。刺绣图纹内容多为中国传统吉祥图案,构图采用了对称与均衡的形式美法则。并进一步将闽西地区客家妇女围身裙与当地畲族合手巾、台湾地区的大裙进行对比发现:闽西地区妇女围身裙体现了客家服饰文化特征,既具有实用与装饰共融的统一性又具有客家服饰文化的根源性与融合性;同时与台湾地区的大裙具有相同形制与文化象征意义,证明海峡两岸的客家妇女服饰文化具有一脉相承性。The apron is an important component of Hakka women′s costume which symbolizes the diligence and wisdom of Hakka women.Based on the field research of the apron dressed by Hakka women in western Fujian,the apron can be divided into two types in terms of the shape,one is tongue-like,and the other is rectangular,with blue and black color as the dominant hue and the upper part decorated with brilliant embroidered patterns that are auspicious in meaning and symmetrical and balanced in layout.Compared with the handkerchief of the local She nationality and the large skirt in Taiwan Region,it is found that the apron of Hakka embodies the cultural characteristics of Hakka costume,that possess of the unity of practice and adornment,as well as origin and mergence.It has the same shape and cultural meaning as those of the large skirt in Taiwan Region,testifying that the costume culture of Hakka women across the Taiwan Straits enjoys the same origin.
分 类 号:TS941.742.8[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]
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