晚清消费文化中的西方元素——晚清时期报刊广告与西餐消费的变迁  

Western Elements in Late Qing Consumer Culture——Newspaper Advertising and the History of Western Food Consumption in Late Qing Period

作　　者：蒋建国[1] 

机构地区：[1]暨南大学新闻与传播学院,广东广州510632

出　　处：《学术月刊》2013年第12期152-159,共8页Academic Monthly

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(暨南跨越计划12JNKJ010);教育部新世纪优秀人才支持计划项目"中国新闻传播技术史"的阶段性成果

摘　　要：广州一口通商之后,随着西方人在十三行一带的不断聚结,"宴会"成为中西商人交往的重要方式,西餐由此逐渐进入广州上层社会的"私人空间"。鸦片战争后,随着上海对外贸易的繁荣,广州行商和西方商人的交往中心也转移到上海,西餐消费方式在上海不断推广,商业化的西餐馆也逐步出现。至19世纪七八十年代,上海租界一带,已有不少"番菜馆"。《申报》作为当时最具影响的大众传媒,刊登了较多西餐广告,这些形式多样的广告客观地记录了西餐消费的社会化进程,西餐馆也标志着西餐消费从私人空间向公共空间的转向。19世纪90年代之后,《游戏报》、《国闻报》、《大公报》等报刊刊登了大量本地西餐馆广告,这表明西餐消费已向天津等地拓展,而当时的一些文人骚客和普通民众也对西餐情有独钟,西餐消费的大众化趋势日趋明显。各种西餐广告对消费地理、消费形式、消费空间和服务等方面的介绍,不仅推动了西餐消费文化的传播,也为我们认识晚清社会生活的多元化和西餐消费文化的变迁提供了历史见证。Since Guangzhou performed as the only available trading port, foreigners constantly gathered nearby Thirteen Hongs. Banquet turned to the crucial social way between domestic and foreign merchants and Western food stepped into the private place of the upper class in Guangzhou. After the Opium War, for the booming foreign trade in Shanghai, the social interaction with foreign merchants shifted from Guangzhou to Shanghai. With the wide spread of Western food, commercial Western restaurants gradually showed up. Till the 1870s, there were a lot Western restaurants in Shanghai Concession. As the most influential media at that time, Shen Pao published many Western food advertisements recording the socialization process of Western food consumption. Western restaurants also represented the transition from private to public place. After 1890s, Game Gazette, Guowen Daily, and Ta Kung Pao published many local Western restaurant advertisements as well, indicating the Western food consumption expanded to Tianjin and other places. Then some seholars, poets and common were also fond of Western food that tended to be popular.

关 键 词：晚清 西餐 广告 消费文化 

分 类 号：K25[历史地理—历史学]