蜀绣技艺融入服饰设计的思考  

A Reflection on Blending Sichuan Embroidery in Fashion Design

作　　者：乔洪[1] 乔熠 张序贵[2] 

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学服装学院,成都610101 [2]成都纺织高等专科学校纺织工程学院,成都611731

出　　处：《丝绸》2015年第2期45-50,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：四川省教育厅人文社科重点项目"蜀锦蜀绣传统技艺保护与传承研究"(14SA0006)

摘　　要：通过分析蜀绣技艺的风格特性及刺绣在现代服饰中的应用状况,阐述了作为四大名绣之一的蜀绣在服饰设计中运用的意义:一是活化保护蜀绣传统技艺;二是提升现代服饰的深层价值;三是为建立中国时尚文化流行系统奠定基础。同时,就蜀绣技艺运用于高级丝绸礼服设计的方法进行分析,以蝴蝶纹样为例进行设计实践,明确礼服中蜀绣纹样造型及色彩的设计方法,采用平面与立体相结合的刺绣针法。并对蜀绣与服装结合的工艺难点进行探讨,针对绣绷改良及固色处理两大问题寻求新的解决途径。以此研究蜀绣技艺在现代服饰设计中运用的可行性,为蜀绣技艺的保护与传承提出新的发展方向。By analyzing both the style features of Sichuan embroidery and the application of embroidery in modern costumes,this paper describes the significances of Sichuan embroidery in modern fashion design. Firstly,it can activate protection of traditional Sichuan embroidery skills. Secondly,it can enhance the underlying value of modern garments. Thirdly,it can lay the foundation for the establishment of popular system of Chinese fashion culture. As well,this paper analyzes the methods to apply Sichuan embroidery skills in design of advanced silk formal dress and takes butterfly pattern design for example. This paper also specifies Sichuan embroidery pattern and color design methods and combines plane and stereoscopic embroidery stitch. Besides,this paper also discusses the technical difficulties of combining Sichuan embroidery with garments and seeks new solutions to embroidery stretch improvement and fixation treatment. The paper studies the feasibility of applying Sichuan embroidery in modern fashion garments,and provides a new development direction for the protection and inheritance of Sichuan embroidery.

关 键 词：蜀绣技艺 视觉元素 丝绸礼服 服饰设计 保护传承 

分 类 号：TS935.14[轻工技术与工程]