近代民间女袄装饰图案设计方法与审美特征研究——以齐鲁和江南地区相关藏品为例  

Research on Design Methods of Decorative Pattern and Aesthetic Characteristic of Modern Folk Female Coat——Cast Study of Related Collections in Qilu and Jiangnan Areas

作　　者：段小萌 张竞琼[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（社会科学版）》2015年第4期298-301,共4页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University：Social Sciences

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学规划项目(11YJA760090)

摘　　要：以江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的齐鲁地区和江南地区女袄作为研究对象,选取女袄上的装饰图案,分析其设计方法与审美特征。通过对其装饰位置、装饰形式、装饰手法的研究,结果表明:近代民间女袄装饰图案一般装饰在衣片、袖口、门襟、下摆等处;装饰形式以对称式与呼应式为主;装饰手法以刺绣、织染与镶边为主;这些设计方法构成了近代民间女袄图案装饰的整体的形式美,迎合了民间大众的审美需求,是近代民间服饰装饰的重要组成部分。This article takes the modern folk costume in Qilu and Jiangnan regions collected in folk female coat museum in Jiangnan University as the study object, and selects decorative patterns on the female coat to analyze the design method and aesthetic characteristics. Through the study on the location of the decoration, the form of decoration and decorative methods, we could conclude that the decorative patterns of modern folk female coat are generally at the cut pieces, cuffs, plackets, hems and so on. The main form of decoration is symmetric type and echo type; the main decoration methods are embroidery, weaving and dyeing, purfle, and these design methods constitute the beauty in form of decorative patterns on modern folk female coat and cater to the aesthetic needs of the public; it is an important part of decoration of modern folk costume.

关 键 词：近代 民间女袄 装饰图案 设计方法 审美 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]