徐显秀墓室壁画中服饰图案研究  

Study on Garment Textile Pattern in XU Xianxiu's Tomb Murals

作　　者：陈爽爽[1] 王乐[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2015年第8期16-22,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划课题"丝绸文物信息提取与设计素材再造方法研究"资助项目(2013BAH58F01);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232015H-21)

摘　　要：徐显秀墓发现于公元2000年,墓室壁画资料丰富,众学者分别从不同的角度进行了研究,但是对其服饰图案缺乏系统的研究。文章对徐显秀墓壁画中的服饰图案进行了分类整理及复原,就联珠团窠纹的联珠环、主题纹样和辅花的特点进行了归纳总结和分析,然后将其与同时期的联珠团窠纹进行比较,总结出了联珠团窠纹中的联珠环均为圆珠构成,每个团窠之间没有连接的交点,图案具有极高的封闭性和完整性等特点。另外壁画中的服饰图案融合了中西方文化因素,是当时社会生活的映射,为研究者了解及探究北朝至唐的服饰图案提供了宝贵的资料。The tomb of XU Xianxiu was discovered in 2000, which has rich mural data. Many scholars study it from different perspectives, but there is lack of systematic research on garment patterns. Through the classification and reconstruction of garment patterns in the tomb of XU Xianxiu, this paper analyzes and summarizes the characteristics of the roundels, the theme pattern and the auxiliary designs of the pearl roundel pattern. Through comparing it with the coeval pearl roundel patterns, the paper concludes that the pearl roundel in Murals of XU Xianxiu＇s Tomb are round bead form, with no connection with the contiguous pearl roundel, and the patterns own high closure and integrity characteristics. The garment pattern of tomb murals combined the Chinese culture with Western elements, which reflected the social life at that time and provided valuable materials for us to study the garment pattern from the Northern dynasties to Tang dynasty.

关 键 词：徐显秀 服饰图案 壁画 联珠环 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]