校服的三要素与中国校服设计思维模式变革  

The “three elements”of school uniform and the reform in design thinking mode of Chinese school uniform

作　　者：孙涛[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2016年第5期43-49,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(12YJC760070)

摘　　要：在国内服装时尚理念与国际前沿日益融合的今天,国内校服设计的理念及实践的滞后备受关注。文章从概念内涵分析入手,提出了校服的"三要素"是青春、美丽、智慧。在此基础上,运用历史与逻辑相一致的研究方法,梳理中国校服百年历程中的思维模式。研究发现,中国校服设计思维模式表现为对校服三要素的偶然符合和必然偏离,这是由中国传统服装文化心理模式所决定的。通过国内外校服的对比,提出国内校服设计思维变革的途径,即从深化问题到厘清概念,再到优良设计,最终实现服装文化心理模式更新,从而为校服设计实践提供新的理论基础。When the fashion concept of domestic clothing design and the international forefront are increasingly integrating into each other today,the concept and practice of domestic school uniform design is still lagging behind.This phenomenon has attracted much attention in recent years. Based on the analysis of the connotation of the concept,this paper puts forward three elements of school uniform： youth,beauty and wisdom. On this basis,the paper uses research method of the unity of history and logic to systemize the mode of thinking of China uniforms in the past one hundred years. It is found in the study that Chinese uniform design thinking mode accidentally conforms to and inevitably deviates from the three elements; this is decided by the psychological mode of Chinese traditional costume culture. Through comparison of school uniforms at home and abroad,this paper puts forward the approach of changes in design thinking of school uniforms in China,namely from deepening the question,clarifying the concept,the excellent design,to ultimately realizing update in psychological pattern of clothing culture,so as to provide a new theoretical basis for the practice of school uniform design.

关 键 词：校服 要素 设计 思维模式 服装史 服装文化心理 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]