论苏珊·凯瑟服饰文化研究思想的转变  

On Susan Kaiser's Transformation of Clothing Culture Study: From Clothing Social Psychology to Fashion and Cultural Studies

作　　者：史亚娟[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院外语系,北京100029

出　　处：《艺术与设计（理论版）》2016年第7期82-84,共3页Art and Design

基　　金：北京服装学院国外服饰文化理论研究(2014A-26);中外服饰文化研究与传播项目(PTTBIFT-TD-001)

摘　　要：苏珊·凯瑟是美国加州大学戴维斯分校著名服装心理学、文化研究学者,她1997年出版了《服装社会心理学》一书,2012年又出版了《时尚与文化研究》一书,这两本书中她的服饰文化研究思想发生了很大转变,主要表现为如下三点:从服装社会心理学到服装文化学、从二元论到多元论思想、从语境研究到交叉性研究(从情境中的符号互动到时空交叉)。苏珊·凯瑟服饰文化研究思想的转变也表明当代主流服饰文化研究正在从二元论思想朝着多元、立体和时空交叉研究的方向发展,对这一发展趋势的研究有助于我们对时尚文化影响下的人类主体建构有更加清晰的认知。Susan Kaiser, as American contemporary clothing psychologist, professor of clothing culture in University of California, Davis, her thought of studying clothing culture goes through a great change from Clothing Social Psychology（1997） to Fashion and Culture Studies（2012）, which can be summarized as the following three points： from clothing social psychology study to fashion culture study, from dualism thinking or the traditional binary research to pluralism thinking, from context study to intersectionality. In the process of comparative study, it is also important for us to see the orientation of contem0orary clothing culture study which are characterized with pluralism and the intersectionality between time and space. The correct understanding of this trend will help us have a clear view of the construction of human identity under the influence of fashion culture.

关 键 词：苏疆·凯瑟 服装社会心理学 时尚 文化 

分 类 号：J05[艺术—艺术理论]