纯棉特细号高密绒类面料设计与开发  

Design and Development of Pure Cotton Velvet Fabric with Super Fine Yarn and High Density

作　　者：钟婧 陈红霞 孟红彩 

机构地区：[1]江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司,江苏南通226000 [2]上海齐力助剂有限公司,上海201711

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2016年第11期69-72,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：探讨秋冬纯棉特细号高密绒类面料的开发要点。介绍了该品种的设计思路及整经、上浆、织造、印染后整理工艺,对比了含PVA及无PVA浆料配方的浆纱工艺和效果,并对面料丝光后纤维截面、面料性能指标、手感值进行了检测和对比。通过选用含长绒棉的细号纯棉精梳纱,采用无PVA的淀粉浆上浆,双根引纬织造方式,最终开发出一种高档全棉绒类保暖面料。认为采用无PVA的高性能淀粉浆料上浆,配以合理的上浆工艺,可以达到提高织机效率,降低生产成本,提升面料舒适性和环保性的目的。The developing key points of pure cotton velvet fabric with super fine yarn and high density for au- tumn and winter were discussed. The design thought of the fabric together with the processes of warping,sizing, weaving,dyeing ~ printing and finishing were introduced. The sizing process and effect of sizing instruction with without PVA were compared. The properties of fiber cross-section after fabric mercerizing, fabric property in- dexes and hand feeling value were tested and compared. A kind of pure cotton high class velvet thermal fabric was successfully developed by selecting fine long-stapled cotton combed yarn, adopting starch size mixture without PVA and using double-weft insertion weaving method. It is considered that the purpose of improving loom effi- ciency,reducing production cost and promoting fabric comfort and environmental protection property can be a- chieved by adopting high-performance starch size mixture without PVA for sizing and matching reasonable sizing technology.

关 键 词：无PVA上浆 淀粉浆 纯棉 磨绒 面料手感 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]