合体袖的内旋结构原理与制板方法  

Principle of internal rotation structure and method of pattern making for fit-sleeve

作　　者：胡毅[1] 刘治君[1] HU Yi LIU Zhijun(Department of Garment, Chengdu Textile College, Chengda, Sichuan 611731, China)

机构地区：[1]成都纺织高等专科学校服装学院,四川成都611731

出　　处：《纺织学报》2016年第11期109-113,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：四川省教育厅科研项目(14ZB0325)

摘　　要：针对传统制版方法的合体袖不能满足人体手臂运动舒适度和美观度等问题,对人体臂弯内旋形态与袖型结构内旋力学要求进行分析,结合欧美时尚潮流对合体袖的造型要求和结构参数统计,采用立体裁剪实验验证等方法,将合体袖内旋结构与圆度、角度、弯度、前斜做了综合研究。研究认为,通过改变前后袖缝线的长度差,增大前袖缝线袖弯形态,结合归拔工艺还原前后袖缝线的长度与形态差,就能产生内旋扭力形成内旋的结构原理,从而得到合体一片袖、合体两片袖的内旋扭力设计原理和内旋结构的制版方法。该制版方法设计出的合体袖样板改进了传统合体袖的结构设计与版型,大大提高了合体袖的着装舒适度和美观度。The fit-sleeve achieved from the conventional pattern-making methods couldn’t satisfy the human arm motion comfoet and aesthetic problems. In order to solve this peoblem, the design principles of torsion used in the state of internal rotation and the pattern make of the designs of internal rotation wereanalyzed. combined fashion trends of Europe with the data structure analysis, comprehensive research on the internal rotation state, roundness, angles, cambered angles and the front slopes of the sleeves, were made by draping experiments. The research suggests that the torsion of internal rotation for fit-sleeves with one-piece or two-piece can be generated by changing the length of the front sleeve line, and increasing the front sleeve line curve, and the blocking process is to combined restore the length and form difference. Based on the traditional physical designs and models, the new pattern-make is formed, which improves the traditional structure design and the version of the fit-sleeve, and increases the clothing comfort and beauty.

关 键 词：合体袖 内旋结构 扭力 结构设计 立体裁剪 平面制板 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]