金秀瑶族女装再设计研究——以《瑶山情》为例  

Research on redesign of women's wear for the Jinxiu Yao ethnic minority: case study of “Yaoshan Love”

作　　者：胡澎[1,2] 罗汉儒 

机构地区：[1]广西师范大学 [2]桂林旅游学院,广西桂林541004

出　　处：《丝绸》2017年第1期51-55,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(13BG061)

摘　　要：市场化的今天,民族文化的传承与创新一直是个难题,金秀瑶族服饰在日趋衰微的当下,对金秀大瑶山民族服饰文化的研究迫在眉睫。文章从《瑶山情》民族服饰创作金奖个案入手,通过实地考察与设计实践,运用解构、再整合的方法,分别从金秀瑶族女装的结构分解与重组进行造型的凝练、从面料的叠加与拼贴进行改良、从图案元素的采集与拣选进行重构、从民族元素的提炼与升华对整体风格进行延伸这四个方面进行再设计的探索,提出在保留金秀瑶族女装基本民族元素与风格的前提下,侧重实用功能表现的主张,从现代着装理念及审美角度进行再设计的实践研究。In current China＇s market economy,the inheritance and innovation of ethnic culture has been a difficult problem. As the costume of Jinxiu Yao ethnic minority tends to decline,it is urgent to study the costume culture of Jinxiu Yao ethnic minority. This paper starts from the gold award of the ＂Yaoshan Love＂ethnic costume design and explores the redesign of the women＇s wear for Jinxiu Yao ethnic minority in combination of the field study,design,practice,deconstruction and reintegration method from four aspects： the design and modeling by deconstructing and reintegrating the clothes,fabric improvement through overlaying and collaging,reintegration by pattern collections and selections,and expansion of the general style by refining and sublimating the ethnic factors. It comes to the conclusion that under the precondition of reserving the basic ethnic factor and style of the women＇s wear for Jinxiu Yao ethnic minority,utility function is stressed,and that the redesign should be carried out in accordance with the modern wearing idea and aesthetic view.

关 键 词：金秀瑶族 女装设计 再设计 瑶山情 民族文化 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]