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作 者:韦玉辉[1] 宁琳[1] 吴雄英[2] 丁雪梅[1,3]
机构地区:[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]上海出入境检验检疫局,上海200135 [3]现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室(东华大学),上海200051
出 处:《纺织学报》2017年第7期69-74,共6页Journal of Textile Research
基 金:东华大学博士生创新基金委资金支持项目(CUSF-DH-D2016067);东华大学非线性研究所支持项目(15D110926)
摘 要:针对纯羊毛织物可否使用干衣机滚筒烘干的问题,采用起毛起球评级箱、扫描电子显微镜、X射线衍射仪及KES-FB织物风格仪,研究了静置悬挂、正反向交替旋转及单方向旋转烘干方式对织物的起毛起球、纤维形态、结晶度及弯曲刚度等性能的影响。结果表明:滚筒的烘干方式对织物的起毛起球、微观形态及弯曲刚度有一定影响,但不会影响羊毛的化学成分、分子结构及热稳定性;单方向旋转烘干,纤维表面鳞片被部分剥离、破坏,纤维表面可见皱缩状沟槽,织物表面毛羽较多,弯曲刚度显著下降;综合考虑能耗及烘干时间,正反向交替旋转是比较适合纯羊毛织物的滚筒烘干方式。In view of the problem whether pure knitted wool fabrics can be dried in a dryer or not,influences of hang-drying model, single clockwise direction rotating-drying model and alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model on pilling of pure knitted wool fabrics were investigated by pilling tester,scanning electron microscopy,X-ray diffraction and Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric( KES-FB). The results show that pilling and morphology of wool fiber are significantly affected by the direction of rotating. In addition,different rotating-drying models only damage in pilling and microstructure of fiber instead of the wool fiber chemical composition and molecular structure. The drying maximum damage is obtained under clockwise direction rotating condition,the surface scales of wool fibers are partially cleaved,some grooves generate on the surface,and surface hairiness increases.Bending stiffness decreases significantly. Combined with the drying energy consumption and drying time,alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model is optimal for pure wool fabric.
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