基于三维人体形态的织物立体悬垂测试方法与表征  

Test method and characterization of 3-D drape for fabrics based on human body form

作　　者：韩剑虹[1,2,3] 周衡书 武世锋[1] 刘向荣 刘晋夫[2] 

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭411104 [2]湖南省新型纤维面料及加工工程技术研究中心,湖南益阳413000 [3]湖南省新马制衣有限公司,湖南益阳413100

出　　处：《纺织学报》2018年第1期39-44,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：湖南省科技计划项目(2016TP2025);湖南工程学院优秀硕士论文培育项目(Y15001)

摘　　要：针对传统织物悬垂性能测试法的固有缺陷,以人体三维形态为基准,提出了一种测试自然悬垂状态下织物立体悬垂性能的新方法,研制了织物三维立体悬垂仪,并依此原理设计和制作了简易模型测量装置。提取织物的波纹数、悬垂系数、平均弯曲指数、弯曲变异指数等指标,对织物立体投影曲线进行CAD模拟分析研究结果发现:与传统伞式悬垂测试法相比,新方法所得悬垂系数与织物的悬垂性能成正相关,2种方法所测波纹数接近,相关性高达0.9,表明三维立体悬垂性能测试方法可更逼真地反映织物的真实悬垂性能与形态。由此建立的织物悬垂性能指标体系可更好地反映织物的造型能力。Abstract In order to overcome the inherent defects of conventional fabric drape test method, a new testing method under the self-weight condition was proposed based on the three-dimensional shape of the human body, and a new testing device which can directly reflect the three-dimensional drape shape of fabrics was developed. The device was used to measure the number of corrugations, the drape coefficient, the average bending index, the bending index and so on, and the simulation analysis of fabric drape form was characterized by CAD. Results show the drape coefficient is in positive correlation with drape for the new test method. The test number of corrugations is similar compared with the conventional test method, and the correlation is as high as 0.9. It is indicated that the new fabric three-dimensional drape test method can more realistically reflect the real drape and drape form, and the new built index system can better reflect the three-dimensional drape shape of fabrics.

关 键 词：织物 三维立体 悬垂性能 人体形态 

分 类 号：TS02[轻工技术与工程]