中高弹牛仔面料失弹问题探讨  

Elasticity loss of denim containing Spandex fiber

作　　者：陈桂春 陈妍 林元宏[3] CHEN Guichun;CHEN Yan;LIN Yuanhong(Prosperity Textile Co., Ltd., Shaoguan 512100 , China;Institute of Textile and Apparel Hunan Institute of Engineering, Xiangtan 411104, China;Yancheng Industry Career Technical College, Yancheng 224005, China)

机构地区：[1]韶关市顺昌布厂有限公司,广东韶关512100 [2]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭411104 [3]盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2018年第2期25-26,34,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：失弹问题是中高弹牛仔面料的主要疵点。通过长期实践，归纳和讨论了各类失弹现象所产生的原因及失弹表现，主要有：纬向通幅失弹、随机短距离失弹、特定位置失弹、整体性失弹等。提出了解决面料失弹的方案，主要有：开裁前松布处理、裁片方式标准化、优选缝制方式、降低面料纬向缩水率及选择合适的水洗工艺。研究结论对面料及服装生产具有实际参考意义。Elasticity loss is the main defect of high and medium elastic denim fabric. The causes of elasticity-loss phenomena are summed up and discussed through long practice, including weft direction latitudinal elasticity loss, random short-distance elasticity loss, elasticity loss at specific locations, and overall elasticity loss, and the corresponding solutions are proposed as disposal of loose cloth before cutting, standardization of the cutting method, optimization of the sewing mode, reduction of the fabric shrinkage in the weft direction, and selection of the appropriate washing process, which can provide practical reference significance for the production of fabrics and garments.

关 键 词：弹力织物 牛仔布 疵点 失弹 缩水率 

分 类 号：TS111.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]