布依族植物靛蓝传统染色工艺  

Traditional Dyeing Process of Natural Indigo of Bouyei

作　　者：刘昆 巩继贤[1,2] 李辉芹[1,2] 李政[1,2] 李秋瑾[1,2] 张健飞[1,2] Liu Kun1,2, Gong Jixian1,2, Li Huiqin1,2, Li Zheng1,2, Li Qiujin1,2,Zhang Jianfei1,2(1.School of Textile, Tianjin Polytechnic University, Tianjin 300387, China; 2.Key Laboratory of Education Ministry for Advanced Textile Composites, Tianjin Polytechnic University, Tianjin 300387, Chin)

机构地区：[1]天津工业大学纺织学院,天津300387 [2]天津工业大学先进纺织复合材料教育部重点实验室,天津300387

出　　处：《针织工业》2018年第3期56-58,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家重点研发计划(2016YFC0400503-02);中国纺织工业联合会科技指导性项目(2017011);新疆自治区重大专项(2016A03006-3)

摘　　要：靛蓝染色在我国具有悠久的历史,在传统的染织文化中占有重要的地位。靛蓝染色是布依族的传统技艺之一,由于外来文化的冲击,传统靛蓝染色技术流失严重。通过在贵州省册亨县实地调研,考察了布依人家的制靛和染色过程,研究了工艺流程和工艺参数,分析了其中的工艺原理。这对传统染色技术的复原、传统文化的传承、植物资源的利用和原生态纺织品的开发都具有重要意义。Indigo dyeing has a long history, which plays an important role in traditional textile culture. As one of the traditional skills of the Bouyei, traditional indigo dyeing technique suffers a serious loss because of the crash of foreign culture. According to the practical survey in Ceheng County of Guizhou province, the paper investigated the process of indigo and dyeing of Bouyei people,studied the technological process and technological parameters, and analyzed the principle of the technology. Above all, it is of great significance to the restoration of traditional dyeing technology, the inheritance of traditional euhure ,the utilization of natural indigo and the development of original ecological textiles.

关 键 词：植物靛蓝 制靛 染色 传统技艺 布依族 原生态 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]