基于标本研究的壮族服饰结构节俭智慧  

Research on the Thinking of Zhuang Clothing Structure based on Specimen

作　　者：樊苗苗 刘瑞璞[1] FAN Miao-miao;LIU Rui-pu(College of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Anthropology Museum of Guangxi,Nanning 530028,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]广西民族博物馆,广西南宁530028

出　　处：《广西民族大学学报（自然科学版）》2018年第3期50-55,共6页Journal of Guangxi Minzu University ：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：北京市学科建设-国家特殊需求-中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新人才培养项目(NHF2017079)

摘　　要：为了继承和弘扬壮族服饰文化,剖析和解读壮族传统服饰的文化特质,以广西民族博物馆馆藏壮族服饰标本为研究对象,采用标本和文献二重考证和比较研究的方法,对标本的上衣、百褶裙、胸兜在服装结构上测绘、数据采集与比较分析,并且进行结构图和排料图的复原实验,发现在壮族服饰结构文化中充满了壮族人的节俭智慧.壮人的节俭智慧体现在壮族服饰的制衣方法中,反映着布幅决定服饰结构的形态.同时,对布幅完整使用的思维也影响着壮族服饰主结构之外的细节处理.通过对标本的研究表明壮族服饰结构属于"十字形平面结构",与中华传统服饰结构文化一脉相承;壮族人对服饰的节俭意识是在生产资料产生不易的状态下产生的,并且这种节俭的思维影响了壮族服饰结构形态的形成.通过对现存博物馆标本的研究,以实物的数据对壮族人服饰结构的节俭智慧进行有效的物证.In order to inherit and carry forward the Zhuang clothing culture, analyze and interpret Zhuang Traditional costume culture trait, this paper use the Zhuang clothing samples which is from Anthro pology museum of Guangxi as the research object and use double textual research method（specimen and doc ument） as the research method. After surveying and mapping of clothing structure, data calculation, corn parison and analysis, carry out the restoration experiment of structural diagram and fabric placement, then found in the Zhuang clothing structure is not only the width of decision dress structure form, at the same time also affected the detail processing in Zhuang clothing structure. Through the study of specimens indica ted that the Zhuang clothing structure belongs to the ＂cross plane structure＂, which is consistent with the Chinese traditional clothing structure. In the difficult state of production, Zhuang people＇s prodution is under consciousness of thrift, and this consciousness of thrift has already influenced the formation of the Zhuang clothing structure and the historical changes of the Zhuang clothing structure.

关 键 词：壮族服饰 结构 布幅 节俭 思维 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]