真丝丝巾天然染料扎染工艺探析  

Tie-dyeing process of silk scarves with natural dyes

作　　者：陈秀芳[1] 郝文洁 CHEN Xiufang;HAO Wenjie(Department of Textile&Garment Engineering,Anhui Vocational and Technical College,Hefei 230011,China)

机构地区：[1]安徽职业技术学院纺织服装系,合肥230011

出　　处：《丝绸》2018年第4期13-18,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：安徽省高等学校自然科学研究重点项目(KJ2016A385)

摘　　要：为了开发丝巾新产品,文章采用天然染料对真丝丝巾进行扎染。首先介绍部分天然染料的化学结构和媒染性能,并以此为理论依据对真丝丝巾进行扎染。在染色工艺中,常规浸染采用单一色扎染工艺、渐变色扎染工艺和拼混色扎染工艺;微波染色采用浸渍加热法和注射加热法,并将这两种方法与不同的捆扎技巧相结合,得到不同的多套色扎染效果。与常规的浸染相比,微波染色加热时间短,加热效率高,染料的利用率增加,废水排放减少,特别是在多套色扎染中这些优点更为突出。摩擦色牢度和皂洗色牢度测试表明,经筛选的天然染料扎染的丝巾产品能基本满足服用需求。In this paper,silk scarves were tie-dyed with natural dyes to develop new products.The dyeing process is based on the chemical structure and mordant dyeing properties of natural dyes.In the tie-dyeing process,conventional exhaust dyeing adopted single color tie-dyeing process,gradient color tie-dyeing process and mixed color tie-dyeing process,while microwave dyeing involved heating after impregnation and injection.Meanwhile,the two methods were combined with different tying skills to gain multi-color tie-dyeing effect.Compared with conventional exhaust dyeing,microwave dyeing gets shorter heating time and higher heating efficiency.In the meantime,the availability of dye is high and the discharge of wastewater is reduced in microwave dyeing.Especially in multi-color microwave dyeing,the above advantages are more distinctive.Testing of color fastness to rubbing and soap wash fastness indicates that the silk scarves tie-dyed with selected natural dyes can basically meet requirement of wearing.

关 键 词：真丝丝巾 天然染料 扎染 常规浸染 微波染色 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]