以无醇橄榄油复配油微乳为载体的补水凝胶面膜的制备及评价  

Preparation and Evaluation of Moisturizing Hydrogel Facial Mask Using Alcohol-Free Microemulsion of Olive Oil Compound as Carrier

作　　者：谭笑 景盼盼 张迪 侯宏保 谢茵[1] 田青平[1] TAN Xiao;JING Pan-pan;ZHANG Di;HOU Hong-bao;XIE Yin;TIAN Qing-ping(Department of Pharmacy, Shanxi Medical University, Taiyuan 030001, China)

机构地区：[1]山西医科大学药学院,太原030001

出　　处：《中国药学杂志》2019年第6期476-483,共8页Chinese Pharmaceutical Journal

基　　金：国家级大学生创新创业训练计划项目资助(201610114006)

摘　　要：目的以橄榄油(OL)/维生素E琥珀酸酯(VES)为油相(O),透明质酸、胶原蛋白、海藻酸钠、熊果苷、尿囊素为活性物,制备无醇、低表面活性剂(S)的高效补水微乳凝胶面膜。方法通过OL与VES复配和助表面活性剂(CoS)丙二醇对微乳区域的影响研究筛选微乳处方,通过透射电镜观察、粒度测定对面膜的微乳特征进行表征。以市售御泥坊睡眠面膜为对照对面膜的保湿效果和经皮吸收效果进行评价。结果 OL/VES复配能显著提高微乳区域,当质量比为6:1时微乳区域最大。CoS的使用反而会降低OL微乳区域。选择O/S质量比为4:6、水含量为85%的微乳作为载体,所得面膜液滴圆整、平均粒径为(58.83±0.79)nm、PDI为(0.271±0.001),符合微乳特征。所制面膜的补水效果相比市售御泥坊睡眠面膜可提高5.5%。1%的熊果苷从面膜中经离体豚鼠皮肤的稳态渗透速率Js为0.305 mg·cm^(-2)·h^(-1),是从御泥坊睡眠面膜中渗透速率的4.29倍。本品安全、稳定,符合国家轻工行业标准QB/T2872-2007的感官和理化指标。结论以OL/VES微乳凝胶为载体所制面膜可提高补水效果和活性物的经皮吸收效果,有望推广和开发。OBJECTIVE To investigate an efficient hydrating facial mask with olive oil (OL)/vitamin E succinate(VES) as the oil phase(O), and with hyaluronic acid, collagen, sodium alginate, arbutin, allantoin as the active ingredients, using a low concentration of surfactant(S) and alcohol-free microemulsion gel as the carrier. METHODS By investigating the effect of VES and co-surfactant (CoS) propylene glycol on microemulsion region, the microemulsion formulation was screened. The microemulsion characteristics of the facial mask were characterized by transmission electron microscopy and Malvern particle size determination. The moisturizing effect and transdermal absorption capacity of the facial mask were evaluated using a commercially available unifon mask as the reference substance. RESULTS Through the compounding of OL and VES, the microemulsion area of OL was increased, and microemulsion range was largest when the mass ratio of OL to VES was 6∶1.The use of the co-surfactant(propylene glycol) reduced the OL microemulsion area. The microemulsion with O/S mass ratio of 4/6 and water content of 85% was selected as the carrier, and the obtained droplet of the facial mask was round, the average particle size was (58.83±0.79) nm, and the PDI was (0.271±0.001), which were in line with the characteristics of microemulsion. Compared with commercial unifon mask, the moisturizing effect of the self-made microemulsion gel facial mask increased by 20.37%. The steady-state infiltration rates of 1% arbutin from the facial mask through the isolated cavy skin was 0.305 mg·cm^-2·h^-1, which was 4.29 times higher than that from the marketed unifon mask. This product was safe and stable, and meets the sensory and physicochemical indexes of the national light industry standard QB/T2872-2007. CONCLUSION The facial mask with OL/VES microemulsion gel as the carrier can improve the hydrating effect and the transdermal absorption of the active substance, it is expected to be promoted and developed.

关 键 词：橄榄油 维生素E琥珀酸酯 微乳 面膜 保湿 透皮吸收 

分 类 号：R944[医药卫生—药剂学]