核桃青皮色素的提取及其在真丝上的染色  

Extraction of walnut peel pigment and dyeing on silk

作　　者：肖培 杜海娟 欧康康[1] 郑一帆 周美玲 岳孟源 汪青[1,2] XIAO Pei;DU Haijuan;OU Kangkang;ZHENG Yifan;ZHOU Meiling;YUE Mengyuan;WANG Qing(School of Textile,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450007,China;Collaborative Innovation Center of Textile and Garment Industry,Zhengzhou 450007,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院纺织学院,河南郑州450007 [2]河南省纺织服装协同创新中心,河南郑州450007

出　　处：《中原工学院学报》2019年第2期6-11,共6页Journal of Zhongyuan University of Technology

基　　金：河南省高等学校重点科研项目(18B540003)

摘　　要：通过实验探讨核桃青皮色素的提取条件对提取液的影响,改变发酵时间和溶剂浓度来提取核桃青皮色素,并以提取液的紫外可见分光光度曲线为依据,确定了最佳提取条件。讨论了媒染剂种类和媒染方法对染色真丝织物反射率R值的影响。通过比较所染织物颜色的深浅,探讨核桃青皮色素对真丝的染色工艺,并对所染织物的皂洗牢度进行了评价。核桃青皮色素的最佳提取条件如下:在乙醇浓度为40%的水溶液中发酵24h。核桃青皮色素对真丝染色的最佳工艺如下:染液浓度为75g/L,pH值为3.5,染色时间为75min,温度为100℃。结果表明:用Fe^3+前媒法和后媒法上染的真丝织物均为黄褐色,同媒法为红棕色;用Cu^2+前媒法上染的真丝织物为黄褐色,同媒法为红棕色,后媒法为浅灰色;用Al^3+前媒法上染的真丝织物为黄灰色,同媒法和后媒法均为红棕色;用核桃青皮色素染色的真丝织物皂洗牢度可达3级以上。The effects of extraction conditions of walnut peel dye were studied by experiment,and the different pigmentation times and solvent concentrations were chosen to extract the pigment,and the optimal extraction condition was found based on the UV-visible absorbance of the extraction solution.The effects of mordant types and mordant methods on the reflectance R value of mulberry silk dyed fabrics were discussed.By comparing the color of the dyed fabric,the dyeing process of walnut peel pigment on silk was discussed,and the soaping fastness of the dyed fabric was evaluated.The results indicate that:The walnut peel pigment is fermenting for 24 h with 40%ethanol-water solution as solvent.The best process for dyeing silk with walnut peel is as follows:The dyeing solution concentration is 75 g/L,the pH value is 3.5,the dyeing time is 75 min,and the temperature is 100℃;The results indicate that:The silk fabric dyed with the pre-media method and the post-media method of Fe^3+is yellowish brown,and the same medium method is reddish brown;The silk fabric dyed by the Cu^2+pre-media method is yellowish brown,the same medium method is reddish brown,and the latter medium method is light gray;The silk fabric dyed by the Al^3+pre-media method is yellow-gray,and the same media method and post-media method are reddish brown;Silk fabrics dyed with walnut peel pigment have a soaping fastness of more than grade 3.

关 键 词：核桃青皮 真丝织物染色 发酵法 媒染剂 染色工艺 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]