Qualitative Description of Swashing Motion States on Mild Beach Slope  

作　　者：YIN Jing ZOU Zhi-li FANG Ke-zhao LIU Yan-li 

机构地区：[1]State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China [2]Key Laboratory of Sea-Area Management Technology, National Marine Environmental Monitoring Center, Dalian 116024, China

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2019年第4期412-423,共12页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51879033)

摘　　要：The swashing motion on mild beach slope is dominated by the motion of low frequency waves (LFWs). Companying such a motion, there are two types of swashing motion states, occurrence or no occurrence of LFW’s collision. The present study distinguishes the two states qualitatively by relating it to the number of generated LFWs for the case of two incident wave groups. A simplified swashing index is established theoretically for this purpose. A series of related experiments were performed to observe the generated out-going LFWs on different mild slope from 1:20 to 1:160 and to determine the critical value of the swashing index. Numerical simulations based on higher order Boussinesq equations are also performed to help the recognition of the LFWs generated in the experiment.The swashing motion on mild beach slope is dominated by the motion of low frequency waves(LFWs). Companying such a motion, there are two types of swashing motion states, occurrence or no occurrence of LFW’s collision. The present study distinguishes the two states qualitatively by relating it to the number of generated LFWs for the case of two incident wave groups. A simplified swashing index is established theoretically for this purpose. A series of related experiments were performed to observe the generated out-going LFWs on different mild slope from 1:20 to1:160 and to determine the critical value of the swashing index. Numerical simulations based on higher order Boussinesq equations are also performed to help the recognition of the LFWs generated in the experiment.

关 键 词：swashing SURF BEAT BRAKING WAVE low frequency WAVE WAVE GROUPS 

分 类 号：P[天文地球]