柯尔克孜族传统“喀贾热”织花毯工艺探析  

Process analysis of Kirgiz traditional “Kajiare” woven tapestry

作　　者：肖爱民[1] 葛梦嘉 张俐敏[1] 张爱佳 王义 迪丽达·马塔 XIAO Aimin;GE Mengjia;ZHANG Limin;ZHANG Aijia;WANG Yi;Dilida Mata(Textile and Clothing College,Xinjiang University,Urumqi 830046,China)

机构地区：[1]新疆大学纺织与服装学院

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第10期35-39,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目(17XM095);国家级大学生创新创业训练项目(201910755078)

摘　　要：柯尔克孜族毛织品具有强烈的地域性、艺术性和独特的织造工艺。文章通过田野调查研究,记录了传统“喀贾热”织花毯的织造过程和方法,从中提取了制作“喀贾热”的特色工艺。研究显示:“喀贾热”是在原始三角织机上采用经线分层排列、三梭控制分层的方法织造而成的经线显花的复杂经二重组织织物,其反面呈现的长浮线与正面图案相同,通常由女工根据经验和预设图案手工挑经形成。此研究分析有助于对柯尔克孜族“喀贾热”传统织造工艺的保护和传承。Kirgiz wool fabric is a unique weaving process with distinct regional and artistic characteristics.Through field investigation and research,this paper records the weaving process and method of traditional“Kaqiare”woven flower carpet,and extracts the special process of“Kaqiare”making.Researches show that“Kaqiare”is a complex warp-twisted fabric that is woven with primitive triangular loom by means of warp layering and three shuttle control layering.The long float line on its reverse side is same with that of the frontal pattern,which is usually made by producer manually picking on the preset patterns based on experience.The research and analysis in this paper are conducive to the protection and inheritance of the unique weaving process of Kirgiz“Kaqiare”.

关 键 词：柯尔克孜族 喀贾热 织花毯 工艺 探析 

分 类 号：TS935.75[轻工技术与工程] J523.4[艺术—艺术设计]