清代宫廷服饰中“卐、卍”字纹的布局与审美及其设计应用  

Layout, aesthetic and design application of Swastika in court dress of Qing dynasty

作　　者：陈珊[1] 刘荣杰 CHEN Shan;LIU Rongjie(Master Studio,Wuxi Vocational Institute of Arts&Technology,Wuxi 214206,China;Non-Material Culture Heritage Base of Jiangsu Province,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]无锡工艺职业技术学院名师工作室,江苏无锡214206 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2019年第11期83-91,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省人才工作领导小组“333高层次人才培养工程”资助项目(2016III-2921)

摘　　要：清代宫廷服饰纹样历经百年的文化积淀与工艺演进,吸收融合了汉族服饰文化精髓,具有较高的文化价值与艺术魅力,其纹样种类繁多、寓意丰富。"卐、卍"字纹作为其中一种服饰纹样符号既有着文字属性与吉祥寓意,同时还兼具几何图形的审美特征。文章对清代宫廷服饰中的"卐、卍"字纹进行实物考察和案头资料整理,着重分析其形式特征、布局规律及其所展现出的审美特征,从而进一步将其形态提取归纳、变形再创,巧妙地将这一传统符号与当代服装、服饰设计有机结合,为传统元素在当代服装设计中的创新应用提供依据。After a hundred years of cultural accumulation and technological evolution, the court costume patterns of the Qing dynasty absorbed and integrated the essence of Han costume culture, and have high cultural value and artistic charm. The patterns of the Qing dynasty are various and meaningful. As a representative clothing pattern, the Swastika has character attribute and auspicious implication as well as aesthetic characteristics of geometric figure. In this paper, authors investigated and studied the Swastika pattern of the court dress in Qing dynasty, and then analyzed the form characteristics, layout rules and aesthetic characteristics. Finally, authors further extracted, concluded and recreated the forms to make an organic combination of the traditional symbol with contemporary clothing and fashion design. This paper provides support for innovative applications of traditional elements in modern fashion design.

关 键 词：清代宫廷服饰 “卐、卍”字纹 布局形式 审美特征 创新设计 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS941.2