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作 者:张竞琼[1,2] 李荣 ZHANG Jingqiong;LI Rong(School of Textile and Clothing,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Intangible Culture Heritage Research Base,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
机构地区:[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122
出 处:《丝绸》2019年第12期114-121,共8页Journal of Silk
基 金:江南大学自主科研项目(2019JDZD05)
摘 要:校服是为学生制定的一种专门性服装,从近代开始被命名,并随时代改变呈现出不同特征。文章以近代报刊、传世图像资料为依据,对晚清、民国初期、民国中后期三段时期的形制展开分析,其中晚清时期的男女学生校服以中式长袍马褂、袄裙或袄裤为主;民国初期的男女学生校服分别有长袍、学生装、童子军服、新式上袄下裙;民国中后期的男女学生校服流行学生装和改良旗袍。此外还从平等观念、学生标识、中西多元化、结构、执行度与多样化等方面讨论了学生校服的形制沿革。通过分析学生的校服形制,总结出近代学生校服呈现向西化、现代化方向发展的规律。School uniforms are specialized clothing for students. They have been named since modern times and show different characteristics with era change. Based on the modern newspapers and handed-down image data, the form and structure of school uniforms in the Three Periods of the Late Qing dynasty, the Early Republic of China, and the Middle and Late Republic of China are analyzed. Among them, the uniforms for male and female students in the late Qing dynasty were mainly Chinese robes, jackets, coats, skirts or pants. In the early Republic of China, the uniforms for male and female students included robes, student uniforms, boy uniforms, new style coats and skirts. In the middle and late period of the Republic of China, student uniforms and improved cheongsam became popular. In addition, the evolution of form and structure of student uniforms was discussed from the aspects of equality concept, student identification, diversification between China and the West, structure, execution and diversification. By analyzing the form and structure of students’ uniforms, this paper sums up the development laws of modern students’ uniforms in the direction of westernization and modernization.
分 类 号:TS941.732.9[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]
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