试探金朝女真男性贵族、官员服饰的分化和演变  

Probe into the Differentiation and Evolution of the Official Dress of the Male Aristocrats and Officials in Chin Dynasty

作　　者：张宸 Zhang Chen

机构地区：[1]辽宁师范大学历史文化旅游学院

出　　处：《服装设计师》2020年第2期115-120,共6页Fashion China

摘　　要：金朝是女真人在我国北方建立的少数民族政权。女真人早期身着毛皮褐布,虽有贫富之间的差距,但酋长同普通女真男性贵族之间的服饰差异并不明显。金朝服制在金熙宗时初步建立,到金章宗时完备。按使用场合不同,金朝皇帝的服饰分衮冕、朝服和皂巾杂服三种,金朝贵族、大臣的服饰则分朝服、公服和祭服。金朝男性贵族服饰的分化和演变是女真向中原王朝学习在服饰上的直接反映,但金朝男性贵族的服饰仍具有自己的部分特征。Chin Dynasty is a minority regime established by women in the north of China.Although there was a gap between the rich and the poor,the dress difference between the sheikh and the ordinary female real male aristocrat was not obvious.Chin Dynasty clothing system in the initial establishment of Jin Xizong,to complete when Jin Zhangzong.According to the use of different occasions,gold emperor's clothing is divided into crown,court clothing and soap towel miscellaneous clothing three,gold noble,minister's clothing is divided into court clothing,public clothing and sacrifice.The differentiation and evolution of male aristocratic dress in Chin Dynasty is a direct reflection of female truth learning from the Central Plains dynasty in dress,but the dress of male aristocrats in Chin Dynasty still has its own partial characteristics.

关 键 词：金朝 男性服饰 女真贵族 演变 

分 类 号：TS9[轻工技术与工程]