发式的政治史——清代剃发易服政策新考  

The Political History of Coiffure——The New Research on the Coiffure and Dress Act in the Qing Dynasty

作　　者：鱼宏亮 Yu Hongliang

机构地区：[1]中国社会科学院古代史研究所

出　　处：《清华大学学报（哲学社会科学版）》2020年第1期57-77,201,202,共23页Journal of Tsinghua University(Philosophy and Social Sciences)

摘　　要："剃发令"是明清易代之际伴随满洲政权南下攻取明朝地方所实行的一项重要归化措施。随着全国性的清朝统治政权的建立,剃发易服变成了清朝政治文化的一个重要符号。辫发和满洲服饰成为清代中国人的一项重要身体标志。学界一般都认为,剃发易服政策的实施,对清朝建立政治权威有着重要的影响和意义。但是,根据故宫博物院收藏的康、雍、乾时期宫廷画师所绘制的皇帝、后妃、侍从的常服画像,以及外国使节所带画师所描绘的清朝官、民画像,我们发现"剃发易服"在清代并不是一个严格的限制性法令,在不同时期,清朝宫廷中曾经以模仿和穿戴明人"衣冠"为时尚,因此在宫廷画师的写实性描绘中留下了大量身穿明代服饰的人物图像。根据此一现象的提示,我们发现大量明末野史中渲染的"剃发易服""扬州十日""留发不留头留头不留发"等历史叙事,都带有政治动员的色彩,与历史现实有较大差距。本文利用公、私档案、中外图像资料,考证了"剃发令"实施的过程,以及此一法令在不同士、民阶层中的不同适用,指出不受剃发令限制的几种情形,以及满洲贵族在私人生活中发型服饰上特定时期的不同风尚。最后指出,"剃发易服"历史记忆的强化是在晚清革命思潮兴起之时的政治动员符号,根据数据库的统计,"剃发易服"历史叙事与革命思潮兴起具有同步性。Coiffure and Dress Act was an important naturalization measure that accompanied the Manchu regime to attack the Ming Dynasty in the South during the 17 th century. With the establishment of the regime,coiffure and dress style became an important symbol of regime of the Qing Dynasty. Braided hair and Manchuri-an clothing became an important body symbol of the Chinese people in the Qing Dynasty. As it was generally believed that the implementation of Coiffure and Dress Act had an important impact and significance on the establishment of political authority in the Qing Dynasty. However,according to the portraits of emperors,concubines and servants painted by palace painters in emperors Kangxi,Yongzheng and Qianlong time in the Palace Museum,as well as the portraits of officials and people of the Qing Dynasty painted by foreign envoys,the author thinks that Coiffure and Dress Act was not a strict restrictive law in the Qing Dynasty.The court used to imitate and wear Ming people’s clothes as a fashion,so in the realistic depiction of the court painters left a large number of figures wearing the Ming Dynasty style clothes. According to the finding of these fact,the historical narratives such as Tifayifu( 剃发易服),Yangzhou 10 th day,in all kinds of private writings had the color of political mobilization,which was quite different from the historical reality.Using archives,Chinese and foreign image materials and other historical materials,this paper examines the implementation process of the shaving order and its different application in different classes of scholars and people,and points out that the situation is not restricted by the shaving order,the different fashions of the Manchurian aristocrats in their private life,and hair style and clothing in a specific period. Finally,it points out that the strengthening of the historical memory of Tifayifu is a symbol of the political mobilization when the revolutionary trend of thought in the late Qing Dynasty rose. According to statistics,the historical narrative of

关 键 词：剃发令 宫廷画 晚清革命 图像 观念史 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K249[历史地理—历史学]