中国古代成语中的先秦华夏族服饰考  

Research on the costumes in the idioms of the pre-Qin period in Ancient China

作　　者：郭可潍 沙莎 刘安定 叶洪光[1,3] 李斌 GUO Ke-wei;SHA Sha;LIU An-ding;YE Hong guanga;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;Research Center of Textile Culture,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China;The Research Center of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hubei Province,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学纺织文化研究中心,武汉430073 [3]湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2020年第1期26-32,共7页Fashion Guide

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(17YJCZH079);2018年国家级大学生创新训练项目(201810495002)。

摘　　要：[研究方法]针对先秦时期华夏族(汉族前身)的服饰形制与文化的问题,基于中国古代成语的分析,融合古汉字字源学与先秦时期服饰文物考古三方印证的方法,得到先秦时期华夏族的主流服饰是在儒家思想的影响下,逐渐建构成的一种社会文化。[研究结果与结论]研究表明:①成语“天衣无缝”说明了中国原始社会最早的服装应为贯头式,无需缝纫;②成语“束发右衽”“张袂成阴”“前襟后裾”反映了在“礼”的思想影响下逐渐形成春秋战国时期华夏族服饰的正统形制;③春秋战国时期,服饰成语已经开始引申社会文化层次,用服饰及其部件的作用、状况来反映当时的处境观、人生观以及价值观。Regarding the clothing form and culture of Huaxia ethnic group(the predecessor of Han ethnic group)in the pre-Qin period,the paper analyzes ancient Chinese idioms,the etymology of ancient Chinese characters and archaeological findings to conclude that the mainstream costume for Huaxia ethnic group in the pre-Qin period represents a social culture gradually established under the influence of Confucianism.The research shows that the idiom“Tian Yi Wu Feng(a seamless heavenly robe)”indicates that the earliest clothing in China's primitive society was a large piece of cloth with no needlework.The idioms“Shu Fa You Ren(bind the hair up and cross the collars diagonally with the left crossing over the right)”,“Zhang Mei Cheng Yin(If a crowd raised their sleeves,a shade would be formed)”,and“Qian Jin Hou Ju(literally means full front and back of a Chinese jacket or gown,indicating very close relationship)”indicate the orthodox clothing form of Huaxia ethnic group during the Spring and Autumn Period was gradually established under the influence of“Li(etiquette,or ritual)”ideology.During the Spring and Autumn Period,the clothing idioms extended their meanings to imply social culture.The functions of different types of costumes or parts of clothing were used to reflect people's outlook and values on life and the world at that time.

关 键 词：成语 先秦时期 华夏 服装 考辨 

分 类 号：I0-05[文学—文学理论] TS941-09[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]