立体裁剪与平面裁剪结合在连身西装领样版设计中的应用  

Combination of pattern draping and pattern drafting in the pattern design of one-piece suit collars

作　　者：花芬 吴志明 倪阳生 HUA Fen;WU Zhiming;NI Yangsheng(Zhengzhou Science and Technology Industrial School,Zhengzhou,Henan 450053,China;Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;China Textile and Apparel Education Socitoy,Beijing 100020,China)

机构地区：[1]郑州市科技工业学校,河南郑州450053 [2]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [3]中国纺织服装教育学会,北京100020

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第12期52-55,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为了提高复杂西装领平面样版设计效率,针对西装领样版设计过程中版型不易直观反映领子造型的问题,通过不断实践,提出立体裁剪与平面裁剪结合设计样版的方法。在阐述立体裁剪优势、立体裁剪应用于西装领样版设计方法的基础上,详细分析了Dior连身西装领造型特点,采用立体裁剪与平面裁剪结合方法进行样版设计的方法、步骤。研究表明,立体裁剪与平面裁剪结合样版设计方法不但能在样版设计过程中直观地反映领子造型与样版的关系,而且有效提高了样版设计效率和成功率,为西装领样版设计提供了有益的帮助。In order to improve the design efficiency of the patterns of complex suit collars,and to solve the problem that the pattern is not easy to directly reflect the collar shape in the design process of suit collar patterns,based on continuous practice,this study proposed a method of the combination of pattern draping and pattern drafting.On the basis of expounding the advantages of pattern draping and the application of pattern draping to the design methods of suit collar patterns,the features of Dior′s onepiece collar pattern were analyzed in detail.The methods and steps of pattern design by the combination of pattern drafting and pattern draping were described.The research shows that this method can not only directly reflect the relationship between collar shape and pattern in the process of pattern design but also effectively improve the efficiency and success rate of the pattern design.It provides useful help for the suit collar pattern design.

关 键 词：立体裁剪与平面裁剪结合 连身西装领 样版设计 立体裁剪 平面裁剪 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]