南宋女性服饰的花卉纹装饰时尚探析  

Analysis of flower pattern decoration fashion of women’s clothing in Southern Song dynasty

作　　者：李建亮[1] LI Jianliang(Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第6期82-88,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：杭州市社科基金项目(Z19JC103);浙江理工大学基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2020Q054)。

摘　　要：自然写实的花卉纹是南宋女性服饰装饰的一大特色,反映了宋代女性着装的时尚风气。文章通过对福州黄昇墓、德安周氏墓、高淳花山宋墓等出土南宋女性服饰花卉纹的梳理分析,总结花卉纹在南宋女性服饰上应用的社会成因、应用特征及文化内涵,指出南宋女性服饰花卉纹受到宋代书画艺术的影响,不仅在造型及工艺上体现出日趋写实的特征,更是在内涵表达上成为女性主体德行展现和审美追求的符号载体,具有了吉祥的内涵,展现了中国服饰美学精神。并以此为传统文化符号在现代服饰设计中的应用提供参照。Natural and realistic flower patterns are the major feature of women’s clothing decoration in the Southern Song dynasty.It reflects the fashion trend of women’s clothing in the Southern Song dynasty.Based on an analysis of the flower patterns of Southern Song dynasty unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb in Fuzhou,Zhou’s Tomb in De’an and Song tomb of Huashan in Gaochun.This paper summarizes the social causes,application characteristics and cultural connotations of the application of flower patterns in women’s clothing in the Southern Song dynasty,and points out that the flower patterns in women’s clothing in Southern Song dynasty are influenced by the paintings and calligraphy in Song dynasty,which not only reflects increasingly realistic characteristics in style and technology,but also becomes the symbol carrier of women’s main virtues and aesthetic pursuit in connotation expression.Besides,it has auspicious connotations and shows the aesthetic spirit of Chinese clothing.This paper provides a reference for the application of traditional cultural symbols in modern fashion design.

关 键 词：南宋 女性服饰 花卉纹样 装饰时尚 服饰审美 美学精神 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]