基于古汉字字源学视角下皮服起源的考辨  

Study on the origin of leather clothing from the perspective of etymology ofancient Chinese characters

作　　者：李斌 严雅琪[1] 李强 沈劲夫 LI Bin;YAN Yaqi;LI Qiang;SHEN Jinfu(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Wuhan Textile and Apparel Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Editorial Department of Fashion Guide,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;School of Art,Hubei University,Wuhan 430062,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心,武汉430073 [3]武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》编辑部,武汉430073 [4]湖北大学艺术学院,武汉430062

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第7期94-98,共5页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：针对皮服起源的问题,文章运用古汉字字源学、古文献及考古发现三维印证的方法,从原始皮革的处理方法、原始服装的皮革属性、原始皮服的形制三方面展开分析,得到皮服是人类的初服的观点。研究表明:原始人类运用“吹气剥皮法”与“口鞣皮革法”等来处理皮革,为皮服的制作提供物质准备;甲骨文“衣”与“裘”字形比较及篆体“褐”的会意构字规律,至少在逻辑上证明了原始服装的皮质属性;原始皮质腰带是服装起源的原点,它是一种有效的携带工具,而真正意义上原始皮服形制为“贯头式”或“披挂式”,它为纺织面料服装的发展奠定形制上的基础。In view of the origin of leather clothing,the three-dimensional verification method of ancient Chinese character etymology,ancient books and archaeological discoveries was used to analyze the processing method of the original leather,the leather properties of the original clothing,and the form of the original leather clothing to obtain the view that leather clothing is the initial clothing of human.The study showed that,primitive humans used"blowing stripping method"and"mouth tanning method"to deal with leather and provide material preparation for the production of leather clothing.The comparison of"garment"and"leather"in oracle bone inscriptions and the rule of semantic word formation of seal character"brown"at least logically proved the leather properties of the original clothing.Primitive leather belt is the origin of clothing,and it is an effective carrying tool.In the true sense,the original leather clothing is shaped as"crosshead-style clothing"or"draped-style clothing",which lays the shape foundation for the development of textile fabric clothing.

关 键 词：皮服 甲骨文 字源学 服装起源 三维印证 古文献 

分 类 号：TS564[轻工技术与工程—皮革化学与工程] K877.1[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]