特体女衬衫版型修正分析  

Correction and Analysis of the Pattern of Special Body Shape Blouse

作　　者：左洪芬[1] 吴美阳 王静 Zuo Hongfen;Wu Meiyang;Wang Jing

机构地区：[1]烟台南山学院 [2]烟台南山学院纺织科学与工程学院

出　　处：《服装设计师》2021年第9期115-122,共8页Fashion China

基　　金：2020年山东省重点研发计划(软科学)项目(2020RKA06013);烟台南山学院2020年青年科研基金资助项目(Q202011)。

摘　　要：本文以特体女衬衫版型为切入点,排除面料性能对衬衫版型的影响。根据驼背体、挺胸体和凸肚体三种特殊体型特征构建特殊体型人台,制作正常体型样衣,穿着在特殊体型人台模型上分析其着装弊病产生原因并逐一进行版型修正,得出结构优化方案,使特体人群穿着服装时美观、舒适,达到衣身结构平衡,从而优化女衬衫结构设计,为特体服装制版提供一定的理论借鉴。This article takes the special body blouse version as the starting point to eliminate the influence of fabric properties on the shirt version.According to the three special body characteristics of hunchback body,chest-up body and convex belly body,a special body shape human table is constructed to make a normal body shape sample garment.Analyze the causes of the ills of dressing on the model of the special body shape,and modify the pattern one by one,and get the structural optimization plan to make the special body people beautiful and comfortable when wearing the clothes,and achieve the balance of the body structure,thereby optimizing the structural design of the blouse,Provide a certain theoretical reference for special clothing plate making.

关 键 词：女衬衫 特殊体型 着装弊病 样板修正 

分 类 号：TS9[轻工技术与工程]