从“生”与“熟”的二元关系简析古代鱼脍的流变  

A Brief Analysis of the Evolvement of Eating Fish Slice in Antient Times from the Dualistic Relations between Raw and Cooked

作　　者：何绮珊 彭静 HE Qishan;PENG Jing(School of Nationalties, Guangdong Polytechnic Normal University, Guangzhou 510630, China)

机构地区：[1]广东技术师范大学民族学院,广东广州510630

出　　处：《广东石油化工学院学报》2021年第5期30-34,39,共6页Journal of Guangdong University of Petrochemical Technology

摘　　要：鱼脍兴起于先秦,盛行于汉魏至宋元,衰微于明清,其本质是生食,与中国主流饮食中的熟食相对。以结构人类学中“生”与“熟”的二元关系为分析框架,对鱼脍兴衰流变进行“生/熟”汉文化社会深层次的探析。生食的“脍不见血”曾让鱼脍无限接近熟食文化,受到古代各阶层民众的追捧。然而,生食始终难以克服“自然”和“他者”的历史局限性,如今中原地区鱼脍的祭祀和饮食功能已被弱化,鱼脍发生“中心——边缘”转移,表明“生”与“熟”从并存走向对立的结构。The habit of eating Fish slice rose in the pre-Qin Dynasty,prevailed in the Han Wei to Song Yuan,and declined in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.Its essence is raw food,as compared to the deli in China’s mainstream diet.Taking the dualistic relationship between raw and cooked as the analysis framework in structural anthropology,the deep-seated analysis of the rise and fall of eating fish slice is carried out.Raw food with“no blood”made fish endlessly close to cooked food culture,thus favored by the ancient people of all walks of life.However,raw food has always been difficult to overcome the historical limitations of“nature”and“others”,and now the sacrifice and diet function of fish in the Central Plains region has been weakened,and the“center-edge”of fish slice has shifted,indicating that relations between the raw and the cooked have transformed from coexisting to opposing.

关 键 词：“生”与“熟” 二元结构 古代 鱼脍 流变 

分 类 号：C953[社会学—民族学]