非遗舞蹈服饰道具传承中的守正创新--以南通地区为例  

Tradition Following and Innovation in the Inheritance of Clothing Props in the Intangible Cultural Heritage Dance-Nantong Region as an Example

作　　者：李晓燕[1] 李宁[2] 孙晔[1] LI Xiao-yan;LI Ning;SUN Ye(School of Textile and Clothing,Nantong University,Nantong,Jiangsu 226019;Institute of Philosophy and Culture,Jiangsu Academy of Social Sciences,Nanjing,Jiangsu 210013)

机构地区：[1]南通大学纺织服装学院,江苏南通226019 [2]江苏省社会科学院哲学与文化研究所,江苏南京210004

出　　处：《艺术百家》2021年第6期174-180,共7页Hundred Schools In Arts

基　　金：2021年度南通大学横向项目“国家级非遗舞蹈《东坝大马灯》服饰设计”(项目编号:21RH091)阶段性成果之一。

摘　　要：服饰道具作为非遗舞蹈的重要组成部分,其严肃性和规范性在当今未得到应有的重视,传承中的转基因现象频出。作为江苏非遗舞蹈大市的南通,其非遗舞蹈服饰道具普遍存在资料失传、传承失序等问题,尤以服饰道具失范问题突出,这些问题使非遗舞蹈所体现的南通农耕文明、水乡特色、三民社会和审美的二元对立特征等优质基因被无意消解。实现非遗舞蹈的活态传承需要对服饰道具具备必要的尊重和坚守,应对现有服饰资料抢救性修复还原;在服饰创新中对于基本色彩和基本款式要有底线思维;政府在规范、监督非遗传承方面应发挥主导作用。Clothing props are an important part in the intangible cultural heritage dance,but their seriousness and standardization have not been paid due attention to.In the inheritance,the transgenesis phenomena occurs often.Nantong is known for intangible cultural heritage dance in Jiangsu Province.Clothing props generally have problems such as lost information and disordered inheritance.The clothing is not standard,which is a prominent problem.Therefore,high-quality genes shown by dance such as farming civilization,features of a region with rivers,and san-min society including farmers,fishermen and salt producers,and features of the aesthetic binary opposition are eliminated unintentionally.To realize the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage dance in a living state,it is necessary to respect and adhere to the principle of the clothing props using;rescue,repair,and restore the existing information of clothing;and have a bottom line for basic colors and styles in the innovation of clothing.The government should play a leading role in the standardization and supervision of the inheritance of intangible cultural heritage.

关 键 词：非遗舞蹈 服饰道具失范 文化基因 守正 创新 

分 类 号：J70[艺术—舞蹈]