天然染料在柞蚕丝冷轧堆染色中的应用  

Application of Natural Dyes in Tussah Silk Cold Pad-batch Dyeing

作　　者：贾艳梅 于学智[2] 梁鹏 靳卫[3] Jia Yanmei;Yu Xuezhi;Liang Peng;Jin Wei(College of Chemical Engineering and Machinery,Eastern Liaoning University,Dandong,Liaoning 118003,China;College of Clothing and Textile,Eastern Liaoning University,Dandong,Liaoning 118003,China;Yingkou Institute of Vocational Technology,Yingkou,Liaoning 115000,China)

机构地区：[1]辽东学院化工与机械学院,辽宁丹东118003 [2]辽东学院服装与纺织学院,辽宁丹东118003 [3]营口职业技术学院,辽宁营口115000

出　　处：《针织工业》2021年第12期35-38,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：辽宁省自然科学基金项目(2018055050347);国家级大学生创新训练计划项目(2018117790009)。

摘　　要：为丰富天然染料的色谱,探索冷轧堆工艺在天然染料染色中的应用效果,采用3种天然材料黑米、栀子和板栗壳的提取液对柞蚕丝织物进行冷轧堆染色,研究浸轧次数、染浴pH值及明矾和硫酸亚铁媒染对试样K/S值及L^(*)、a^(*)、b^(*)的影响,对试样的颜色及色牢度进行测试。结果表明,天然染料适宜的冷轧堆染色工艺为:浸轧两次,pH值=4.0,预媒法染色,在此条件下染色柞蚕丝织物可以得到较高的K/S值及较好的色牢度。通过天然染料冷轧堆染色及媒染,可以获得一系列色泽的柞蚕丝织物。To enrich natural dye chromatography and explore the application of natural dyes in cold pad-batch dyeing process, three kinds of natural dyes are extracted from black rice, gardenia and chestnut shell, respectively.The extracted dyes are used on tussah silk fabrics dyeing by cold pad-batch process. The effect of padding times,dyeing pH value and alum and ferrous sulfate mordant on K/S value and color coordinates L^(*), a^(*), b^(*)of the dyed samples are studied, the color values and color fastness of the dyed samples are tested. The results show that the optimum conditions for silk dyeing by cold pad-batch dyeing process of the three natural dyes is: two pad cycles,pH=4.0, pre-mordant dyeing process, then the dyed tussah silk fabrics could get higher K/S value and better color fastness in the optimum condition. A series of colored tussah silk fabrics can be obtained by the three natural dyes with cold pad-batch dyeing process and mordant treatment.

关 键 词：天然染料 柞蚕丝 冷轧堆染色 媒染 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]