从捣练的起源到纺织品砑光处理的专业化  

From the Origin of Tamping to the Specialization of Textile Calendering

作　　者：葛梦嘉 孙晓[3] Ge Mengjia;Sun Xiao

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院 [2]新疆大学 [3]中国社会科学院古代史研究所

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2022年第1期38-42,共5页Art & Design Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金西部项目“新疆传统织造技艺研究”(项目编号:19XKG007)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：本文目的在于,探索中国古代纺织品的特种使用需求及织物后整理中的捣练技术,并对其历史发展与演变过程进行归纳和梳理。为此,笔者以捣练技术为研究对象,以考古出土实证资料为研究样本,并结合古代文献,分析捣练技术的对象与工具,论证捣练技术的工艺流程与制作方法。笔者认为纤维截面形态呈扁平状的出土纺织品是捣练技术背景下的产物,明清之际的“踹布技术”应随捣练技术衍变而来,现代纺织领域中轧光工艺亦属捣练技术现代化、机械化的延伸。In order to explore the special use requirements of ancient Chinese textiles and the tamping technology in fabric finishing,the historical development and evolution process are summarized and combed.Taking tamping technology as the research object,using archaeological evidence as the research sample,and combining ancient documents,analyzing the objects and tools of tamping technology,and demonstrating the process and production methods of tamping technology,it is believed that the fiber cross-section shape is flat.Unearthed textiles are the products of the background of mashing technology.The"kicking technology"in the Ming and Qing Dynasties should evolve with the mashing technology.The calendering process in the modern textile field is also an extension of the modernization and mechanization of mashing technology.

关 键 词：捣练 捣衣 砑光 轧光 织物整理 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计] J18