“传统”的再造与流行--对青年汉服文化演变逻辑的考察  

Reinvention and Popularity of“Tradition”:The Development of Contemporary Youth Hanfu Culture in China

作　　者：杨雪 张冉[2] 孔令旭 Yang Xue;Zhang Ran;Kong Lingxv(School of Journalism and Communication,Peking University;Educational Economics Research Institute,Peking University;School of Management,Fudan University)

机构地区：[1]北京大学新闻与传播学院 [2]北京大学教育经济研究所 [3]复旦大学管理学院

出　　处：《当代青年研究》2022年第2期40-47,共8页Contemporary Youth Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大项目“周边传播理论与应用研究”的阶段性成果,项目编号:17ZDA288。

摘　　要：近年来,中国青年文化呈现出一种“回归传统”的取向,其中汉服文化是一个典型代表。建立在青年文化研究的理论基础之上,半结构式访谈和参与式观察资料呈现了汉服文化从生成到流行的演变过程,揭示了汉服对当代中国青年的文化意义。汉服并非历史遗存,而是诞生于21世纪初期网络民族主义浪潮下的“被发明的传统”。通过借用中国古代服饰的文化符号,汉服被纳入“传统”的意涵,并成为“民族复兴”的象征性表达。虽然在新媒介商业环境下,汉服渐趋产业化,同时青年通过汉服消费表达“回归传统”的审美品位与生活方式,实现文化共同体意义下的身份认同与情感归属。通过汉服解析“传统”从创造到流行的文化现象,为理解新时代中国青年亚文化与社会语境的互动提供了一个切入点。Chinese youth culture has recently shown a tendency of“returning to tradition”,of which Hanfu culture is a typical example.Building upon youth culture theories,data from semi-structured interviews and participant observation reveal the development of Hanfu,as a Chinese costume culture,from its creation to its popularity over time.Hanfu is not a historical relic,but rather an“invented tradition”born out of a wave of online nationalism in the early twenty-first century.By appropriating the cultural symbols of ancient Chinese costume,Hanfu has incorporated the connotation of“tradition”and become a symbolic expression of“national renaissance.”Although the new media development and commercialization has made Hanfu increasingly industrialized,its cultural connotations have not been extinguished.Through the consumption of Hanfu,young people express their aesthetic taste and lifestyle of“returning to tradition”,contributing to their identity construction and emotional belonging.This cultural phenomenon of the reinvention and popularity of“traditional”symbols,as represented by the Hanfu,provides an informative perspective for understanding the interaction between youth subculture and changing social context in the contemporary China.

关 键 词：传统 汉服 青年 亚文化 消费 

分 类 号：G122[文化科学]