榫卯结构在现代女装中的设计原则与方法  

The Design Principles and Methods of Tenon and Tenon Structure in Modern Women’s Clothing

作　　者：葛英颖[1] 刘广昌 GE Yingying;LIU Guangchang(School of Art and Design,Changchun University of Technology,Changchun 130000 China)

机构地区：[1]长春工业大学艺术设计学院,长春130000

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2022年第1期111-114,135,共5页Fashion Guide

基　　金：吉林省科技厅项目(20180418044FG)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]中国传统木结构营造技艺曾被列入联合国人类非物质文化遗产,榫卯结构是传统木作技艺之魂,凝结着中国几千年传统建筑文化的精粹以及古人的智慧结晶。[研究方法和内容]为了探索榫卯结构在女装设计中的现代表达,传承榫卯非遗文化。通过对优秀的设计案例进行梳理分析与论证,探讨榫卯结构融入现代女装的多种设计原则以及设计方法的可行性,提出了榫卯结构在现代女装设计中一一对应的结构设计原则,材料、色彩搭配的阴阳原则,"方圆之间"尽显东方美学的原则,并从结构与装饰统一,图案扁平化等方面阐述了榫卯结构融入现代女装的设计方法。为之后学者做深入研究提供新思路与借鉴,推动现代女装设计的创新化发展。Chinese traditional wooden structure construction techniques have been listed in the United Nations intangible cultural heritage of mankind. The tenon-and-mortise structure is the soul of traditional wooden craftsmanship, condensing the essence of Chinese traditional architectural culture for thousands of years and the wisdom of the ancients. In order to explore the modern expression of the mortise and tenon structure in women’s clothing design, inherit the tenon and tenon intangible cultural heritage. Through combing, analyzing and demonstrating excellent design cases, discussing the feasibility of integrating the tenon-and-mortise structure into the various design principles and design methods of modern women’s wear, and proposes a oneto-one corresponding structural design principle of the tenon-and-mortise structure in modern women’s wear design. Materials The principle of yin and yang of color matching, "between the square and the circle" fully demonstrates the principle of oriental aesthetics, and expounds the design method of integrating the tenon and tenon structure into modern women’s clothing from the aspects of the unity of structure and decoration, and the flat pattern. Provide new ideas and references for future scholars to do in-depth research, and promote the innovative development of modern women’s clothing design.

关 键 词：榫卯结构 女装设计 传统文化 设计原则 设计方法 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]