机缝扎染创新工艺及其应用  

Innovation and application of machine sewing to tie-dye technology

作　　者：彭梅 梁秋华 古丽珠 杨丽萍 龙柳志 PENG Mei;LIANG Qiuhua;GU Lizhu;YANG Liping;LONG Liuzhi(College of Art,South China Agricultural University,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510640,China;Department of Art,Guangdong Polytechnic College,Zhaoqing,Guangdong 526122,China)

机构地区：[1]华南农业大学艺术学院,广东广州510640 [2]广东理工学院艺术系,广东肇庆526122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2022年第3期62-68,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：广东省研究生教育创新计划项目(2017JGXM-MS10)。

摘　　要：为了更好地实现非物质文化遗产的商业价值,在传统扎染工艺的基础上,改变传统工艺方法,用机器扎缝代替手工扎缝工艺,并运用变量实验法探索影响机缝扎染图案效果的因素。实验结果表明:图案构成方式、针距大小、面料种类以及面料折叠方式都对机缝扎染的图案效果有着不同程度的影响。在图案实验的基础上,将机缝扎染应用于时尚女装设计中,实践表明:机缝扎染改变了传统手缝扎染的图案效果,现代感图案更适用于时尚女装设计,其艺术感特征能够适应现代消费者的个性化消费需求。与传统扎染相比,机缝扎染利用机缝进行防染,具有更快捷、更易标准化和更易批量生产等优势。In order to better realize the commercial value of intangible cultural heritage,on the basis of traditional tie-dye process,the traditional process method was changed,machine stitching instead of manual sewing process were tested and a variable experimentation was conducted to explore the factors that affect the machine sewing tie-dye pattern.The experiment results show that the way of pattern composition,the size of the stitch,the types of fabrics and the folding way of fabrics all have different influence on the pattern effect of machine sewing tie-dye.On the basis of pattern experiment,machine sewing tie-dye is applied to women′s fashion design.The practice shows that the machine-sewn tie-dye has changed the pattern effect of traditional handsewing tie-dye,and the modern pattern is more suitable for women′s fashion design.Its artistic characteristics can meet the personalized consumption needs of modern consumers.Compared with traditional tie-dye,machine sewing tie-dye has the advantages of faster,easier standardization and easier mass production.

关 键 词：机缝扎染 控制变量法 图案 时装设计 

分 类 号：TS938.99[轻工技术与工程]