旅游场域中民族饮食习俗文化资源“景观化”研究——以程阳八寨侗族百家宴为例  

A Study on the“Landscaping”of Ethnic Diet Cultural Resources in the Field of Tourism:A Case Study of the Hundred-Family Feast of the Dong in Chengyang Eight Villages

作　　者：杨艺[1,2] Yang Yi(School of Ethnology and Sociology,Southwest Minzu University,Chengdu,610041,Sichuan,China)

机构地区：[1]西南民族大学民族学与社会学院,四川成都610041 [2]桂林理工大学旅游与风景园林学院

出　　处：《民族学刊》2021年第12期115-122,136,共9页Journal of Ethnology

基　　金：国家社科基金重点项目“西南地区多民族共居村落团结奋斗、繁荣发展的实践研究”(20AMZ011)阶段性成果。

摘　　要：民间饮食习俗文化资源旅游开发是当前民族旅游地旅游产业发展的重要内容。一批以各民族民间的集体聚会、餐饮习俗为素材,集餐饮互动、歌舞表演、仪式展演于一体的综合性旅游活动,成为了极具市场号召力和经济生产力的旅游景观。程阳八寨侗族村落社会交往中的百家宴民俗以食物、情感等共享与交换为基本内容,核心意义在于社会关系的稳固和维系,是基于平等观念和互惠准则建构的侗族社会交往习俗。政府及旅游开发集团对程阳八寨侗族百家宴的景观化生产具有规范化和标准化特点,关注市场需求和消费动向,但忽视地方居民的文化主体地位和参与权,景观的活态性创新发展动力不足。程阳八寨居民在各自村寨的百家宴旅游景观生产中凸显了自治能力,搭建了社区集体参与及社区自我主导的管理和分配模式。社区内部的百家宴习俗体系在日常生活中仍有序展开,居民通过参与、吸纳、创造、组合、区隔、遮蔽、自我保护等行动策略,维持百家宴的景观化生产性创造和生活性传承的平衡。民间饮食习俗文化资源旅游产业化开发应对地方居民的主体性地位和价值给予更多重视,文旅深度融合发展仍需要各个行为主体不断调整角色,在价值观念、管理机制、运作方式等方面加强沟通,不断推进民族旅游地的平等、互惠、和谐发展。Taking as its research object the“Hundred-Family Feast”of the Dong people in Chengyang Eight Villages in Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County,Guangxi,this paper attempts to explore the landscaping process of culinary cultural resources in the field of tourism. This study furthermore hopes to restore the numerous fragments of diversified landscape production,consumption,use,and inheritance by different stakeholders,including local governments,tourism developers,residents,and tourists. It tries to generate some reflections on ethnic culture change,development,and inheritance in a rapidly developing commodity society using empirical research.The research finds that: i) Locals show a high degree of initiative and creativity in the landscaping of the Hundred-Family Feast. They select relevant elements from the customs culture system of the Hundred-Family Feast for performances,and supplement or promptly adjust the elements of the landscape product according to consumers’ needs.As a result,an inviting and vivid landscape of Dong’s Hundred-Family Feast has been constructed and displayed on the “front stage. ”ii) The government and tourism development group have integrated the resources and created a consumption-oriented Dong Hundred-Family Feast landscape following the path of “symbol extraction,professional certification,resource integration,scenery setting and performance,standard compliance and market advertising”. iii) Tourists participate in the production and consumption of the Hundred-Family Feast landscape through the tourist’s gaze. Field interviews and network information mainly show that few tourists question the “authenticity”of the Dong Hundred-Family Festival. Apparently,they pay more attention to their personal tourism experience and perception. The increase in tourists’ spending constantly seems to invite adaptations of the tourism landscape of the Hundred-Family Feast.Residents of the Chengyang Eight Villages appear to have shown their self-governance ability in the production of the

关 键 词：民族饮食习俗 景观化 旅游场域 百家宴 

分 类 号：C956[社会学—民族学]