扎染的本名及其汉唐工艺形态  

The original name of tie dying and its technique forms in the Han and Tang Dynasties

作　　者：郑巨欣[1] ZHENG Juxin(School of Design,Chinese Academy of Art,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]中国美术学院艺术设计学院,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第7期123-130,共8页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：扎染是用线扎结织物进行防染印花的传统工艺的通称。目前学界普遍认为,扎染在中国古代称作绞缬,并盛行于唐代。然而梳爬钩沉史料,考镜学术源流之后不难发现,唐代有“染缬”,北朝有“缬”,楚汉有“结”之名,却无“绞缬”。其实,“绞缬”是明治时正仓院宝物清点,将“纐缬”“臈缬”“夹缬”简称“三缬”之一的“纐缬”。虽然名无固宜,但是概念应该分清。因为从工艺形态上说,古代的“结”采用的是绑扎法,而改用“缬”时,是因为缝扎工艺的出现,而唐代的“染缬”则指采用多种扎染工艺的综合运用所得到的效果,故而有其各自的名实关系。Tie-dye is a term used to describe a number of resist dyeing techniques and the resulting dyed products of these processes.At present,it is generally believed by domestic academic circles that tie-dye was called"Jiaoxie(绞缬)"in ancient China and prevailed in the Tang Dynasty.However,it is not difficult to find that there was"Ranxie(染缬)"in the Tang Dynasty,"Xie(缬)"in the Northern Dynasty and"Jie(结)"in the Chu and Han Dynasties,but there was no"Jiaoxie"after studying the historical data and academic origins.In fact,after"Xie(缬)"and"Ranxie(染缬)"were introduced to Japan,the Japanese coined the character"Jiao(纐)"during Heian Period so as to distinguish"Jiaoxie(纐缬)"with"Laxie(腊缬,wax printing)"and"Jiaxie(夹缬,meaning clamp-resist dyeing)".Nevertheless,as"Jiaoxie(纐缬)"and"Jiaxie(夹纐)"have the same pronunciation,they are easy to be confused.As a result,even in Bai Juyi’s verse"as the weather gets cool,the woods are full of red and yellow leaves","Huangjiaxie(黄夹缬,meaning red and yellow leaves)"was written as"Huangjiaoxie(黄纐缬)".It was not until the Meiji Restoration period when the Japanese counted the treasures of Shosoin that they divided them into three types,namely"Jiaoxie(纐缬,tie dyeing)","Laxie(臈缬,wax dyeing)"and"Jiaxie(夹缬,clamp-resist dyeing)"according to their respective process features.The term"Jiaoxie(绞缬,tie dyeing)"originally appearing in Zhu Qiling’s Notes on Silk Embroidery in 1928 was translated from"Jiaoxie(纐缬)"of Zentaro Ono’s Interpretations of Japanese Ancient Dyeing Colors.As Xunzi said,"the name of a thing is not inherently appropriate,but if the name is established,it is appropriate;otherwise;it is inappropriate".It is true there are no proper or improper names,but the concepts should be distinguished.Although the terms"Jie(结)","Xie(缬)"and"Ranxie(染缬)"and"Jiaoxie(绞缬)"in history have a development and inheritance relationship with the current tie-dye,they all belong to the category of tie-dye,but in terms of technological

关 键 词：扎染 夹缬 缬 文物考古 手工工艺 染色 

分 类 号：TS193.53[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程] K876.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]