云冈早期佛像“半右袒式”佛衣及“折带纹”的形成与影响  

Formation and Influence of "Zhedai Pattern" in the Buddhist "Semi-Youtan Style" Costume in Early Period in Yungang

作　　者：刘芳 LIU Fang(Art and Design School,Suzhou University,Suzhou 234099,China)

机构地区：[1]宿州学院美术与设计学院,安徽宿州234099

出　　处：《服装学报》2022年第4期322-329,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：安徽省博士科研启动计划项目(2022B5K001)。

摘　　要：云冈早期昙曜五窟“三佛”组合中,主尊所着“半右袒式”佛衣边缘雕刻了精美考究的类似衣褶的三角折线纹样,此纹样多被学者称为“折带纹”,是该佛衣样式的重要特征。通过梳理十六国北魏时期佛教传播过程中同类造像服饰的时间序列,并结合文献史料,以佛衣的细节变化阐释“折带纹”的来源及形成。分析认为,伴随“半右袒式”佛衣的形成,“折带纹”经历了由衣褶到单个纹样再到成组图案,由不稳定到明确且规整的发展过程,该佛衣样式影响了北魏中晚期龙门、麦积山及其他地区单体佛造像,是北魏造像家对印度早期“右袒式”佛衣的继承与改造。In the "semi-youtan style" worn by the main buddha statue of the "three-buddha" combinationin of Tanyao five caves in early period in Yungang,the edge of the outer garment is carved with exquisite triangular folds similar to pleats.This pattern is always called "zhedai pattern",which is an important feature of the buddhist clothing style.By establishing the same clothing of the buddha statues in chronological order during the spread of buddhism in the Sixteen Kingdoms and the Northern Wei Dynasty,and combining with the literature comparison,this paper explained the origin and formation of the "zhedai pattern" with the changes of the details of the buddhist clothing.It experienced a development process from pleats to single patterns,then to groups of patterns,from instability to clear and regular expression.Then it influenced Longmen,Maijishan and single buddha statue in other areas in the middle and late period of the Northern Wei Dynasty,which reflected the inheritance and transformation of the "youtan style" of the buddhist clothing in the early period of India.

关 键 词：云冈石窟 昙曜五窟 佛像服饰 “折带纹” “半右袒式” 

分 类 号：J19[艺术—艺术理论]