论明清时期女装上“教化图案”的表现形式与规训意识  

On the Expression Form and Discipline Consciousness of "Enlightenment Pattern" on Female Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties

作　　者：高洁[1,3] 王亚蓉[2] 贺阳 Gao Jie;Wang Yarong;He Yang(Tianjin.University.of Technology,Tianjin300384,China;insttute of Archaeology,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Bejing 100732,China;Beijng Insttute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]天津理工大学,天津300384 [2]中国社会科学院考古所,北京100732 [3]北京服装学院,北京100029

出　　处：《艺术与设计（理论版）》2022年第8期86-89,共4页Art and Design

基　　金：天津理工大学教学改革(重点)项目(项目编号:ZD20-14)资助;北京服装学院服务国家特殊需求《中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新》博士人才培养项目(项目编号:NHFZ20210162)资助。

摘　　要：文章通过对中国封建社会教化图案在女性服装上流行的时间段与表现形式进行分析,揭示了在男权社会中女性角色的地位与职责分工,这是统治精英阶级为封建社会“有序运转”所推行的礼乐教化的物质表现。教化图案在女性服装上是以叙事性图像形式呈现,提升了观者的趣味性,弱化了其说教的严肃性,加之大多数图案融合了吉祥寓意,与人们对幸福生活的期盼密切相关,这使得人们更乐于接受与欣赏服装上的教化图案从而实现规训教化的目的。Through the analysis of the time period and expression forms of the pattern of enlightenment in Chinese feudal society in women’s clothing, this paper reveals the status and division of responsibilities of women’s roles in the patriarchal society, which is the material expression of rites and music enlightenment promoted by the ruling elite class for the "orderly operation" of the feudal society.Cultivating pattern presented in the form of narrative images on the women’s apparel, promoted the viewer’s interest, weakening the seriousness of the sermon, and most of the design is a blend of auspicious implies, are closely associated with people, looking forward to a happy life, it makes people more willing to accept and appreciate the enlightenment on the clothing design so as to realize the purpose of discipline education.

关 键 词：叙述性图像 教化 女性 服装 图案 

分 类 号：J51[艺术—艺术设计] TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]