中西方传统异形鞋及其所表征的审美向度与文化差异  

Chinese and Western Traditional Special-shaped Shoes and their Differences in Aesthetic Dimension and Cultural Concepts

作　　者：姚云鹤[1,2,3,4] 张鑫 李鑫娟[3] 潘磊 江栩颖[3] YAO Yunhe;ZHANG Xin;LI Xinjuan;PAN Lei;JIANG Xuying(National Engineering Laboratory for Clean Technology of Leather Manufacture,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;Key Laboratory of Leather Chemistry and Engineering of Ministry of Education,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;College of Biomass Science and Engineering,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;Research Institutes of Leather and Footwear Industry of Wenzhou,Wenzhou 325000,China)

机构地区：[1]四川大学制革清洁技术国家工程实验室,四川成都610065 [2]四川大学皮革化学与工程教育部重点实验室,四川成都610065 [3]四川大学轻工科学与工程学院,四川成都610065 [4]温州鞋革产业研究院,浙江温州325000

出　　处：《皮革科学与工程》2022年第5期63-67,共5页Leather Science and Engineering

基　　金：鞋革产业共性关键技术攻关及应用研究(2021WZSLCQ01)。

摘　　要：异形鞋履是中西方历史上别具一格的服饰文化现象,通过阐释几种典型传统异形鞋的产生背景与形制特征,分析中西方服饰在实穿性、政治礼仪、社会阶层表征功能及其反映的两性审美视角等共性因素。以此为基础,对异形鞋所折射出的两种文明系统下各不相同的宇宙观、伦理观、性别观、身体观、服饰观等进行了论述,并着重围绕其对中西方审美向度的影响进行了深入剖析。The special-shaped shoes are a unique clothing cultural phenomenon in the history of China and the West. By explaining the background and shape features of several typical traditional special-shaped shoes, this paper analyzed the common factors of Chinese and Western clothing in practical wearability, political etiquette, social class representation function and the reflected aesthetic perspective of both sexes. On the basis of this, the different cosmology, ethics, gender,body and clothing under the two civilizations systems reflected by the special-shaped shoes were discussed, and an indepth analysis of its influence on the aesthetic dimension of China and the West was revealed.

关 键 词：中西 异形鞋 文化 社会 审美 

分 类 号：TS943[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]